First off, Eva López is no girl. She’s been climbing for 20 years, is currently writing her doctoral thesis, created a successful line of hangboards, and a few weeks ago sent her first 8c+/5.14c. I’d call her our “Woman Crush of the Month”, but that just doesn’t have the same ring to it. Of course we are in awe of her physical strength (getting stronger and stronger at age 42), but we are even more impressed and intrigued by her scientific approach to climbing.
Eva earned her undergraduate degree in Sports Science and began climbing at the age of 22, so for her it was a natural combination to analyze climbing from a sports science perspective. While the popularity of climbing is growing rapidly, the academic study of proper and efficient training techniques is still in its infancy. By rigorously studying and publishing several scientific articles on climbing training techniques Eva has become a trailblazer in the field. She has used her knowledge and experience to train top climbers like Aleksandra Taistra and Andrea Cartas and to develop a series of hangboards for JM Climbing. Her fingerboards are designed with progressively smaller edges to improve your finger strength; The Progression is designed for low to mid-level climbers, while the Transgression board was developed for climbers who already have a high level of finger strength.
By following her own training advice and research Eva has proven herself in the world of sport climbing as well. She has numerous 5.14s under her belt, including Potemkin (8c+/5.14c), which she also bolted, a task seldom accomplished by women. This weekend she’ll be presenting at the Women’s Climbing Symposium at The Arch Climbing Wall in London. We wish we could be there to hear her insights and wisdom on climbing training!
For more on Eva and her research check out her blog.