Shoe Review: Five Ten Hiangle

Five Ten Hiangle Review

As much as we’re all obsessed with climbing, I think the climbing community may be even more obsessed with climbing shoes. I’ve tried on countless pairs, and maybe this isn’t the best way to start out a Five Ten review, but until now I was a La Sportiva kind of gal. For whatever reason they fit me best… until I slipped my foot into the latest high performance shoe from Five Ten. The Hiangle hugs my foot in all the right places and feels incredibly secure on steep terrain and small edges. Here are all the deets on this new release:

Fit: Yet another shoe designed specifically for a woman’s foot, woohoo!  Compared to the men’s version, the ladies shoe sports a lower achilles, slightly longer footbed, and lower volume to accommodate our foot shape and lower weight. The slipper design makes it a little difficult to get my foot in the shoe, but after some tugging on the pull-loops, I find myself in a fits-like-a-glove situation. They’re snug, but don’t create any unwanted pressure points. The single Velcro strap provides additional support and stability, and I don’t have any extra room in the heel cup (like I do with some other shoes). As for sizing, go with your exact street shoe size. Sounds crazy, right? But it’s true. I wear a size 8 street shoe and the women’s 8 is perfect for me. I definitely could not go any smaller. Overall, these shoes fit my foot very well, but of course everyone’s different so make your way to a shoe demo, retail store, or order online to test out the fit for yourself.

Form: Finally someone’s gotten the pink climbing shoe right! The non-obnoxious pink is complemented well by cream and bright yellow. And I’m happy to report that the designers at Five Ten have left out “girly” prints or patterns. Thank you! I’m sure some women will still be turned off by the color scheme, but I think the Hiangle strikes a good balance of bold and visually appealing without being over-the-top girly.

Function: A down-turned toe and stiff midsole make this shoe excellent for overhung climbing and precise edging. Thanks to the Stealth C4 rubber I feel incredibly confident that I won’t slip on delicate foot placements. The molded section of rand on the toe box is ergonomically designed not to put pressure on your toe knuckles, and the well-covered toe box makes for secure toe-hooking. If you’re looking for an aggressive and reliable shoe, the Hiangle just might be the right fit.

Finances: This shoe retails at $165, which is comparable to other high-performance shoes.

Crush Status: Reliable partner. This shoe has officially joined my repertoire of climbing shoes as a steady go-to. I know I can trust it to stay put and be there for me when things get burly or when I need a great edger.

Climb on!
Mary

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13 thoughts on “Shoe Review: Five Ten Hiangle

  1. Jess W says:

    Can you compare the stiffness of the midsole to other shoes? I currently regularly wear 5.10 Dragons and had a long love affair with La Sportiva Miuras. When I purchased my Dragons I tried a lot of differnt shoes, one being the Evolv Shaman LV, as soon has I tried that on I HATED it, I thought it was too stiff. I like when my climbing shoe feels more like a sock, I can bend my foot and the shoe will bend with it. Any way, long story short do you think I would like the stiffness of the midsole? Obviously I can go try the things on for myself, but why not ask! 🙂

    • Mary says:

      Hey Jess!
      Great question…which I probably should have made clearer =/
      This shoe is pretty stiff. I’d say it’s a little more stiff than the Miura, but less stiff than the Shaman LV. Given what you described, it sounds like this might be too stiff for you. Certainly try them on though.
      Have you tried the La Sportiva Testarossa? I love those for an aggressive, yet flexible option. They’re lace-up though, which turns some people off.
      Hope that helps!
      Mary

      • Jess W says:

        Thanks, Mary! I haven’t tried the Testarossa, my Dragon’s are lace-up so I’m used to that, I will give those a try on too. Thanks for the help!

  2. Caroline Walton says:

    Since they are leather do they stretch as you wear them?

    • Mary says:

      Yes! But so far it’s been in a good way. They don’t feel loose, but rather that they’ve stretched to fit the shape of my foot even better.

  3. Rebecca says:

    I wanted to love these shoes so much! 5.10 is great for people with smaller heels and I love how the heel cup never goes so high as to cut into my achilles tendon. However, if you’re like me and prone to blisters, the heel loops are incredibly painful as they’re not covered by the lining. Other than that they feel amazing and snug!

    • Tristan says:

      My friends have had the same issue and they combat it by fraying the corners of the loop that are in the heel cup with a knife to make them softer and fuzzy.

  4. Amanda says:

    I would love your opinion on how the sizing compares to other Five Ten shoes? I wear size 40 in the Anasazis and 39 in the Mocs. If I usually wearing 8.5, should I try to downsize if I’m used to really snug shoes, or stay with 8.5? I would hate for them to stretch too much. Thanks!

    • Mary says:

      Hi Amanda,
      So… this is actually my first pair of Five Ten’s. Before them I was a die hard La Sportiva wearer. All I can say is go with your street size and not smaller than that. I’m a 8 street shoe and the 8 fits we well, but I definitely could not go any smaller.
      Hope that helps,
      Mary

  5. Caroline W says:

    How do these fit compared to the women’s solutions?

    • Mary says:

      They’re definitely more narrow than the women’s Solutions, making them a bit more difficult to get on and off. If you have a normal or wider foot, the Solution may be a better choice. The construction is also simpler than the Solution. Specifically, the bottom of the Hiangle is one continuous piece whereas the Solution is composed of 3 pieces on the bottom. This makes the feel of the shoe quite different. If you have the opportunity try them both on at your gym’s next shoe demo.
      Hope that’s helpful!
      Mary

  6. JD says:

    I wear a boreal lynx US men 7.
    I want a hiangle wms. What shoe size should I buy. Specially because its a leather it would stretch.
    What should my size? Pls help me.

    • Mary says:

      I’m not sure how to advise you because I don’t have the Lynx. I am a US women’s 8 and I wear an 8 in the Hiangle. You could use a shoe size chart to figure it out. Hope that helps!

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