There’s a lot to choose from when it comes to quickdraws, so today we’re gonna give you the beta on a few of our favorites from Petzl, DMM, and Black Diamond. While the basic components are the same across these draws (1 dogbone + 2 carabiners), the specifics vary. Each draw has its own special features and options, so let’s take a look at each one in turn:
Petzl Djinn Axess
Upper Carabiner: Straight gate with groove on the outside and keylock system facilitates easy clipping onto bolts. The keylock system also eliminates the possibility of snagging the biner on the rope, bolt, or gear.
Lower Carabiner: Bent gate and overall shape make clipping the rope really smooth and easy. This lower biner is a comfortable size for your hand and the gate is easy to open.
Dogbone: Features a super sturdy sling protector that holds the lower carabiner in place and protects the sling from wear. If you’re going to install this piece yourself make sure you do it correctly, as it can be life-threatening if installed incorrectly. The sling comes in 12 cm and 17 cm lengths.
Overall: This draw is sturdy and somewhat simply designed (in a good way). It’s great for withstanding big sport climbing whippers and designed for easy, clean usability. They weigh in at 107 g and 113 g (for 12 cm and 17 cm lengths, respectively) and retail at the very affordable price of $16.95-$17.95 each. Check out all the details on this draw here.
DMM Alpha Sport
Upper Carabiner: Ergonomically designed with a kinked backbone and groove pattern to ensure that you’ll have a good grip when hanging this draw. The solid gate also has groves for better handling and, like the Petzl Djinn Axess, has a snag-free keylock nose.
Lower Carabiner: Features the same kinked backbone and grooves as the upper carabiner, while the solid gate has a unique curve to make clipping the rope even smoother and easier. The forged curve does double duty by helping to prevent unclipping. There is also a deep rope groove to ensure that the rope stays in place.
Dogbone: Measuring in at a somewhat wide 26 mm, the webbing is clearly made to take a beating and catch falls. Similar to the Petzl Djinn Axess, there is a molded “keeper” to protect the sling and keep the draw aligned correctly. The sling comes in three lengths: 12 cm, 18 cm, and 25 cm.
Overall: This is the burliest draw of the three we’re looking at today and has the most detailed design. It’s perfect for sport climbing because of it’s ergonomic design and bomber construction. They weigh in at 102 g, 108 g, and 113 g (for 12 cm, 18 cm lengths, and 25 cm, respectively), but retail at a hefty $25.95-$26.95 each. Find more details from DMM here.
Black Diamond HoodWire
Upper & Lower Carabiner: The upper and lower biner are identical, both featuring wire gates, which are significantly lighter than solid gates. They also feature a stainless steel wire hood that essentially brings the keylock function to a wire gate, preventing snagging on your rope or gear.
Dogbone: While the webbing is relatively thin (14 mm wide), it is still beefy enough to handle all of your sport climbing falls. Instead of an external sling protector like that on the Petzl and DMM draws, the HoodWire features a rubber retainer stitched on the inside the dogbone that does an effective job of keeping the carabiner in place. The sling only comes in a 12 cm length.
Overall: This lightweight draw is the most versatile of the three we’re looking at today. It works well for sport, trad, and ice climbing. However, what you gain in versatility you lose in specificity. This draw is light compared to our other two, weighing in at 82 g and retails at $19.95. For more details check out BD’s site.
Have you got a very favorite quickdraw? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
And if you just haven’t gotten enough info on draws, head over to OutdoorGearLab for more than you’ll ever want to know on the topic.