Quickdraw Comparison: Petzl, DMM, Black Diamond

Making sense of quickdraws can be messy. We're here to help.

Making sense of quickdraws can be messy. We’re here to help.

There’s a lot to choose from when it comes to quickdraws, so today we’re gonna give you the beta on a few of our favorites from Petzl, DMM, and Black Diamond. While the basic components are the same across these draws (1 dogbone + 2 carabiners), the specifics vary. Each draw has its own special features and options, so let’s take a look at each one in turn:

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Petzl Djinn Axess

Upper Carabiner: Straight gate with groove on the outside and keylock system facilitates easy clipping onto bolts. The keylock system also eliminates the possibility of snagging the biner on the rope, bolt, or gear.

Lower Carabiner: Bent gate and overall shape make clipping the rope really smooth and easy. This lower biner is a comfortable size for your hand and the gate is easy to open.

Dogbone: Features a super sturdy sling protector that holds the lower carabiner in place and protects the sling from wear. If you’re going to install this piece yourself make sure you do it correctly, as it can be life-threatening if installed incorrectly. The sling comes in 12 cm and 17 cm lengths.

Overall: This draw is sturdy and somewhat simply designed (in a good way). It’s great for withstanding big sport climbing whippers and designed for easy, clean usability. They weigh in at 107 g and 113 g (for 12 cm and 17 cm lengths, respectively) and retail at the very affordable price of $16.95-$17.95 each. Check out all the details on this draw here.

 

dmm_alpha_clip

DMM Alpha Sport

Upper Carabiner: Ergonomically designed with a kinked backbone and groove pattern to ensure that you’ll have a good grip when hanging this draw. The solid gate also has groves for better handling and, like the Petzl Djinn Axess, has a snag-free keylock nose.

Lower Carabiner: Features the same kinked backbone and grooves as the upper carabiner, while the solid gate has a unique curve to make clipping the rope even smoother and easier. The forged curve does double duty by helping to prevent unclipping. There is also a deep rope groove to ensure that the rope stays in place.

Dogbone: Measuring in at a somewhat wide 26 mm, the webbing is clearly made to take a beating and catch falls. Similar to the Petzl Djinn Axess, there is a molded “keeper” to protect the sling and keep the draw aligned correctly. The sling comes in three lengths: 12 cm, 18 cm, and 25 cm.

Overall: This is the burliest draw of the three we’re looking at today and has the most detailed design. It’s perfect for sport climbing because of it’s ergonomic design and bomber construction. They weigh in at 102 g, 108 g, and 113 g (for 12 cm, 18 cm lengths, and 25 cm, respectively), but retail at a hefty $25.95-$26.95 each. Find more details from DMM here.

381064_Black-Diamond-HoodWire-Exe

Black Diamond HoodWire

Upper & Lower Carabiner: The upper and lower biner are identical, both featuring wire gates, which are significantly lighter than solid gates. They also feature a stainless steel wire hood that essentially brings the keylock function to a wire gate, preventing snagging on your rope or gear.

Dogbone: While the webbing is relatively thin (14 mm wide), it is still beefy enough to handle all of your sport climbing falls. Instead of an external sling protector like that on the Petzl and DMM draws, the HoodWire features a rubber retainer stitched on the inside the dogbone that does an effective job of keeping the carabiner in place. The sling only comes in a 12 cm length.

Overall: This lightweight draw is the most versatile of the three we’re looking at today. It works well for sport, trad, and ice climbing. However, what you gain in versatility you lose in specificity. This draw is light compared to our other two, weighing in at 82 g and retails at $19.95. For more details check out BD’s site.

Have you got a very favorite quickdraw? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
And if you just haven’t gotten enough info on draws, head over to OutdoorGearLab for more than you’ll ever want to know on the topic.

Climb on!
Mary

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4 thoughts on “Quickdraw Comparison: Petzl, DMM, Black Diamond

  1. sean says:

    petzl spirits, edelrid pure sport. petzls for ease of use, edlerids have great gate action.

  2. keith says:

    I’m a pretty big fan of the Black Diamond Livewire as well as the Petzl Spirit. Other than the dog bone, I’d still like to know why the Djinn is cheaper (thus somehow crappier) than the Spirit. Is the metal lower quality?

    • anson says:

      For real though. The spirit is great, but I actually kinda prefer the Djinn because the gate opens a little wider and the carabiners are just bigger.

  3. Peter says:

    I’m glad you mentioned the purpose of the wire hood. It does provide a little bit of added protection.

    In case people don’t know: You can (although it is not likely) catch the leading outside opening edge of a wire gate (where it latches back onto the body of the biner) on gear and cause an unintended opening. (I can make this happen on purpose, but it’s never happened to me when I’ve been actually climbing.)

    This is probably somewhat less of a concern with solid gate biners but I think it still exists. Without the hood that part of the gate is exposed and could – potentially – snag and open.

    I am not saying that non-hooded biners are unsafe – about half my of my biners don’t have hoods. But the hood does serve a purpose, unlike some other things we see show up as innovations in gear.

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