While we love our trusty favorites from La Sportiva, Five Ten, and Scarpa, we also love trying out new brands to see what they’re all about. Today we’re featuring a shoe that you may not have see at your local climbing gym, but has made a serious showing in Europe and is starting to pop up in the States too. The Tenaya Oasi is an amazing all around shoe, great for edging, and incredibly sensitive for a downturned sport climbing shoe. This baby has fast become one of my favorites and here’s why:
Fit: After a few days of wearing they broke in beautifully and now form perfectly to my foot. The heel cup and arch are great for me but a friend tried them on and said she had some extra room under her arch. As with all climbing shoes, you never know until you try them on your unique, callused climber foot. The two thin velcro straps allow for a snug and custom fit, but they can be a little awkward to use. You have to pull the underside of the strap first and then the top layer. One positive to the unique strap design is that the length is adjustable, so you can achieve a perfect fit. In terms of sizing, I am a size 8 street shoe and I wear size 37 (women’s 6!) in the Oasi. I know it sounds a bit crazy, and I do like a snug shoe, but you definitely want to size way down in this shoe.
Form: Great black, white, and blue, unisex color scheme. This shoe reads a little “Euro” to me, but not in a bad way. Overall, I can’t complain at all about how these babies look on my foot.
Function: Finally a truly sensitive downturned sport climbing shoe! Most climbing shoes sport a rubber thickness of 4-5mm, but these are just 3.5mm, and you can feel the difference. They are moderately downturned and the Vibram XS-Grip 1 rubber make for a sticky sole. I feel totally confident edging in these shoes as well as making powerful moves on overhanging routes. These are a great all-arounder for a variety of sport climbing styles.
Finances: Definitely top-shelf at $165, which is comparable to it’s competitors. As always, give the internet a quick sweep and you’ll be able to find them for around $145. At either price, I’d say these are a great investment.
Crush Status: European love. This sophisticated shoe is the perfect balance of aggressive and sensitive, and they are fast becoming my go-to sending shoe.