Tips from the Pros: For Beginners

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Today, Alex Beale from 99Boulders — a site focusing on climbing gear and training — joins us to share training advice he dug up from some of the world’s greatest climbers.

1. Alex Honnold

On what he would do if he had to coach a beginner climber:

“If I was trying to train someone to be a good rock climber, I would focus on movement and technique and footwork… The right things [in climbing] are movement and technique. So how you move over the rock. It has nothing to do with how well you can hold on or how hard you pull. It has to do with knowing where your center of mass is and being able to move your body around in the right way so that you can stay balanced over your feet and you can move yourself upward with your feet.”

Source: The Tim Ferriss Show

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2. Carlo Traversi

On improving at climbing without a coach:

“Find someone that’s good at climbing or that you respect their style of climbing and observe what they do and learn from that. And that’s a really simple way, without coaching, to get better.”

Source: TrainingBeta

3. Sasha DiGiulian

On training advice “for those days when your fingers just refuse to hold on to anything smaller than a luggage handle”:

“Emphasize finger-strength training when you are fresh rather than when you are tired! When your fingers are that tired, my advice for training is to take the day off, to be honest. Resting and stretching are just as important as physical training!”

Source: Reddit

4. Daniel Woods

On advice to a climber looking to take their sport to the next level:

“The best advice is to find out what motivates you to climb and go from there… some people like to specialize in just one thing and some like to be well rounded. Know also that there is more failure that comes from climbing than success. Use that failure as confidence to become better and achieve success. Once you know what you are psyched on… take things to the next level!”

Source: La Sportiva

Young crushers at the HERA Climb4Life Boston. #cruxcrush #metrorockclimbing #heraclimb4life

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5. Tommy Caldwell

On his advice to the next generation of climbers:

“I just think being open-minded and embracing other styles than what you have or other personalities or whatever it may be, is really important, and I just urge people to do that.”

Source: Climbing

6. Fred Nicole

On advice to climbers who want to get stronger:

“It is first and foremost a question of desire. Depending on your personal aspirations you can prepare yourself with training and practicing the activity you want to get better regularly. You have to keep the motivation going even if sometimes the results are not what you expected. Let the things happen as they do without forcing. Try to climb with your body and the rocks without focussing on numbers and difficulty. Even if it is hard, try to distinguish yourself from the competitive attitude.”

Source: Conquer the Crux

7. Joe Kinder

On the best advice he got during his training program:

“I would say to partner up with somebody. I know some folks do well alone, but, personally, I think having someone else training alongside you is really important. Ideally, your partner can hold you accountable, which is really helpful. Perhaps they can be stronger than you and guide you through the process or the exercises. Mentally, training is really difficult. It’s so easy to quit and give up. It’s so damn easy! But you really need to persevere and follow through with it, and that’s probably the hardest but most important part.”

Source: Evening Sends

Getting stretchy at the Snow King Boulder Park | 📷: @nickbplus

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8. Steve Maisch

On how beginner and advanced climbers should structure their training:

“I think beginner climbers should focus on volume, bouldering and routes. A beginner program should be focused on building out the route/boulder pyramid. As you move to advanced training should get more specifically focused on weaknesses, finger strength, core strength, strength endurance, etc. As you get more advanced pick a weakness and try to eliminate it.”

Source: Reddit

9. Paul Robinson

On his training advice for beginner climbers:

“Lifting weights and being physically strong are not how you go from a beginner to an advanced climber. Climbing is like dancing; it is a technical sport that requires complete body awareness. There are so many elements that go into climbing that are often overshadowed: learning about the beta that works for you, trust in yourself and your abilities; trust in those you are climbing with; proper use of toe hooking, heel hooking and knee bars; confidence in moments that aren’t particularly safe. So much goes into being a great climber, but it takes time and patience to get there.”

Source: FrictionLabs

Climb on!

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