Author Archives: Jocelyn

Pits & Peaks: Lessons I Learned on the Road

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Home is where you park it.

You know you’re a climber when you aspire to live out of a van. I have only been climbing for two and a half years. I still flail at times, my leg sometimes shakes, but my psych is high. Climbing has served as a great outlet for my love to travel. I can dabble with the touristy activities, but after a couple hours in a museum or one bus tour, I’m over it.

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Girl Crush of the Month: Heather Weidner

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Photo cred: Jon Glassberg

“Life is short and fragile, go out and get it now”. Inspired by the words of her late mother, Dr. Heather (Robinson) Weidner did just that; as a former veterinarian turned professional climber she is pursuing her passions with abandon. Heather’s jam is to try hard on projects. With unwavering determination, focus and down-right stubbornness, she explains that those who know her call it “Taurus mode”. Jonathon Siegrist interviewed Heather and he’s crushing too (not like that—he’s good friends with her husband). Siegrist said, “I’ve had the privilege to climb with some of the world’s best, but no one that I’ve met has the ambition, persistence and follow through that Heather exhibits.”

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Behind the Lens: An Interview with Adventure Photographer Krystle Wright

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So that’s how they do it.

We all love a good climbing photo. It transports us to a faraway land or captures a memory to look back on. It’s powerful stuff—it turns a mindless instagram sesh into an inspirational experience in an instant. All made possible by the people behind the lens. Their art helps us see more of the world than we could ever cover, stand in other’s [climbing] shoes and blurs the lines between cultures, geographies and people.

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Girl Crush of the Month: Chelsea Rude

Check out that lock off! Photo: Francois Lebeau

You can never use your negative ape index as an excuse again. Why? Chelsea Rude. With a -3 ape index her nickname is T-Rex, but that hasn’t stopped her one bit. As Chelsea puts it, “Don’t make excuses. Get up and go make your dreams a reality.”

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15 Ways You Know You’re a Climber…

We are a special breed. Whether you’re a noob or a veteran, it’s quite clear when you’ve been bitten by the climbing bug. Here are 15 ways you know you’re a climber…IMG_0888

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Climbing in the Year 2030: Gear

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Oh, how the times have changed!

Today we’re sharing the third installation of John Burgman’s series “Climbing in the Year 2030”. Last week, we looked at how training may evolve and John predicted what could be in store for climbing gyms of the future. In today’s segment Burgman talks to the experts to speculate on how gear could evolve over the next 15 years. 

If there’s one common denominator in the predictions and speculation of the next 15 years of climbing, it’s specialization. The all-around climber, at least at the elite level, might soon be an extinct breed. In the year 2030, competitive boulderers will boulder and sport climbers will sport climb, with even more separation than there exists now. Gyms will offer isolated training related to specific disciplines, and indoor and outdoor climbing will set off down their divergent paths, heading towards considerably different destinies like teenagers in a breakup.

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Summer Climbing Essentials

Summer is here! Time to soak up the sun, enjoy the longer days (more pitches!) and embrace all the gloriously sweaty moments. Here are our summer essentials to be enjoyed at your favorite crag.

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1. 3rd Rock Luna Sports Bra – Sometimes less is more. Especially when temperatures rise and humidity is steep. No need to cover up this cute and functional sports bra. It’s eco-friendly, made of 95% organic cotton and is GMO free so you can look good and feel good about this purchase. Plus with the longer length for a bit more coverage…no free shows here!

2. Mammut Liquid Chalk – Sweaty hands, greasy holds…summer brings some not-so-welcomed added challenges, so help yourself out with liquid chalk. Stays on sweat, lasts longer and helps to dry out your hands.

3. Sun Bum Sunscreen – Let’s be smart when it comes to the sun. We are definitely not staying indoors, so we’ve got to apply the SPF. This stuff is great (and the bottle and name are adorable). Don’t want to lotion your oh-so-precious calluses? There’s an aerosol version and it’s free of CFCs so the ozone will still love you too.

4. Yogitoes Headband – Sweat dripping down your face? Keep your hair back and soak up some sweat with this lightweight, no-slip headband. I can’t stand the handbands that dig in to my larger-than-average dome, but this is so comfy you don’t even realize it’s there. And there are countless colors and designs.

5. Sublime Brushes – Summer leads to chalk overload. Use this next-level brush—with boar bristles and an easy grip. Why boar’s hair in particular? It doesn’t erode the rock like other synthetic materials, so you can remove excess chalk but leave the natural texture of the rock intact. Keep an eye open, Sublime Brushes are coming soon! In the meantime check out their Kickstarter campaign.

What would you add to our summer essentials list?

Climb on!
Joc

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How Yoga Will Make You A Better Climber: An Interview with Olivia Hsu

Check out that downward facing dog.

Check out climber Olivia Hsu’s downward facing dog!

Climbing & yoga. Like campfires & s’mores, chips & salsa and Brain & Stewie, they just go together. I recently caught up with Olivia Hsu, a “black belt” climber and yogi. She climbs hard while embodying the essence of yoga. And I’m not just referencing her killer downward dog, but also the mindfulness and qualities that have become core to her personality. Bitten with the climbing bug 13 years ago, Olivia’s psych led her to begin climbing almost daily, which resulted in a finger injury and a forced break from climbing. While recovering, Olivia was on the look-out for a new activity to keep her moving while rehabbing the finger injury. Enter yoga. From her first Ashtanga practice, she was hooked. Once her finger injury healed, her love triangle with climbing and yoga began.

After chatting with Olivia there were five lessons that crystallized for applying the practices of yoga to climbing — whether you’ve never stepped foot on a yoga mat or practice daily.

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How to Send the Ultimate: Grade 5.FUN

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What’s the first word you think of when pondering your project? Hard? Inspiring? Frustrating? How about fun?!

I’ve been climbing for about a year and a half now. True to my nature, I went climbing at a local gym, got hooked and dove head first into all that is climbing. I’m fortunate to have a circle of climbing friends who have mentored me and shown me the ropes (pun intended). These friends took me climbing outside early on and would describe routes as ‘delicate’, ‘burly’, ‘balance-y’, ‘spicy’. With my limited knowledge at the time, this made no sense what-so-ever. When I was asked about the climb, I could only answer as my genuine, psyched outta my mind newb self, “fun!” or “super fun!” with the occasional “really effin fun!”

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