Author Archives: Mary

The Farmer’s Market of Outdoor Goods: An Intro to Hidden Collective

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If you’re looking to diversify your outdoor gear, support local craftsmen (ahem, and women), and connect with how, where, and why your gear is made, then Hidden Collective is your one-stop shop. Launched this year, Hidden Collective brings together unique makers of all kinds of outdoor gear, from skiing, to fishing, and of course rock climbing. It’s like an online farmer’s market of rad outdoor makers whose gear you’ll want and whose missions you’ll want to support. Today we’re giving you the run down on a few of our favorite Hidden Collective makers… and, whatta ya know, we’re just in time for the holidays!

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Girl Crush of the Month: Kyra Condie

Kyra Condie has been on our girl crush radar for a long time now, and watching her take 2nd (behind Alex Puccio) at last weekend’s Portland Boulder Rally totally made it official. With her quick and aggressive climbing style, this 20-year-old Minnesotan, has made a name for herself on the competition scene. Despite setbacks, like 10 fused vertebrae, Kyra has managed to win Youth Bouldering Nationals and regularly podium at national and international comps.

Kyras back at age 12.

Kyra’s back at age 12.

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New Challenges Welcomed: Interview with Angie Payne

In 2015 Angie Payne shared the ABS Nationals podium with Alex Puccio and Alex Johnson. Today we're catching up with her

In 2015 Angie Payne (right) shared the ABS Nationals podium with Alex Puccio and Alex Johnson. Today we catch up and see what she’s been doing since.

If you haven’t heard of Angie Payne, believe me when I say that she’s a pretty rad lady. If you need some proof, the now 31-year-old has done everything from winning national competitions, to bouldering V13, to taking on some seriously sketchy adventures. Read on for her thoughts on today’s comps, working a “real” job, and what it feels like to now be an “old” climber.

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Why Americans Don’t Care About the Climbing World Cup

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The 2016 Overall World Cup bouldering podium: Shauna Coxsey of Great Britain, Miho Nonaka of Japan, and Melissa Le Neve of France. Photo by Liam Lonsdale via Shauna’s IG.

Every year the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) hosts a series competitions in each discipline of climbing: bouldering, sport, and speed. This year the bouldering World Cup series has come and gone, and now the sport climbing World Cup series is underway. Did you even notice? Okay, maybe you noticed, but how many comps did you watch? How many did you care about? For most of us, at least Americans, the answer sounds something like “Not many”, “Zero”, or “Huh? You mean that Euro comp?” Having covered each Bouldering World Cup competition this season on Crux Crush, we also noticed that very few of you read, commented on, or shared these posts. I’m not calling you out here, I’m just saying that we, as Americans, don’t seem to care.

There are really two sides of the not-caring-equation: the competitors and the spectators. Each side isn’t getting into it for different, but related reasons. To dig into the issues surrounding the World Cup we caught up with a bunch of American climbers who have competed in the series, including Megan Mascarenas, Margo Hayes, Ben Hanna, Sierra Blair-Coyle, Michaela Kiersch, and Josh Larson. Here’s what we found out.

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The Yoga Warm Up for Climbing

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Today, Colorado based yoga instructor and climber, Emma Murray, gives us the low down on the best yoga warm up for climbers. Try it out and work to loosen up those perpetually tight shoulders!

Getting your muscles warmed up before jumping on the wall can not only help prevent injury, it can also get you climbing your best right off the bat. Get on this yoga routine to activate all your climbing muscles. When warming up, movement is key. Dynamic stretching that targets shoulders, hips and lats is particularly important and helpful for climbing. Warming up the muscles in these areas can prevent muscle and soft tissue tears or overstrain on tendons and ligaments. Climbing is a strenuous sport; be kind to your body and take care of it so you can continue for the rest of your life!

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Girl Crush of the Month: Laura Rogora

Laura Rogora

Laura making Italian history on Grandi Gesti (9a/5.14d)

This month we’re crushing on the Ashima of Italy, Laura Rogora. The 14-year-old is the reigning Italian champion in both speed and lead disciplines and earned bronze in lead at the World Youth Championships in 2015. “Yeah, yeah, another comp kid,” you may be thinking, but Laura has impressive talent outdoors as well. Like other teenagers, she enjoys listening to music and chatting with her friends, but in her spare time she’s also become the first Italian female ever to climb 9a/5.14d with her send of Grandi Gesti. What strikes us most about Laura is her impressive focus and maturity both on and off the wall.

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8 Tips for Adventure Filmmaking

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We caught up with one of our favorite filmmakers, Jen Randall of Light Shed Pictures, to get her tips on adventure filmmaking. Jen’s films have won tons of awards at Banff, Edinburgh, and Vancouver Mountain Film Festivals, and she’s got a new project in the works called Psycho Vertical. To learn more about the project check out her Kickstarter.

1. Work Out What Your Film is About
My most successful film so far has been Operation Moffat – it’s been in a load of festivals, is for sale online and won 16 awards. It’s also the only project where, very early on, my co-director and I spent 5 days in a hut working out what it was we wanted our film to explore and why. This meant that during the shoot we had more focus and a clearer idea of what we were making. It also made the edit a little more straight forward because I had an outline of our story ready and waiting – often a whole film is worked out in the edit room which is also exciting, but certainly more time consuming.

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My Hand Care Routine with Get Giddy + Giveaway!

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From torn pulleys to split tips to flappers, we tear up our hands, inside and out. Today, with the help of Get Giddy and a few other techniques, we’re taking some time to give our hands the care and attention they deserve. While you’ll have to figure out the specifics of your own hand care routine, here’s what I like to do keep my hands happy.

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Girl Crush of the Month: Alex Puccio

Alex on Free Range (V12), just one of so many boulders she's conquered.

Alex on Free Range (V12), just one of so many boulders she’s conquered.

It’s pretty amazing that after more than 3 years of Girl Crushes we have yet to feature Alex Puccio. It’s probably because we thought “Duh, of course we always crush on her, like all year round, not just for a month”. So today, on the heels of Independence Day, we’re giving props to the one of the best American climbers of all time. For the newbies out there Alex is a 9-time national bouldering champion, 13-time World Cup medalist, and has claimed countless boulders outdoors including V14s, Jade and The Wheel of Chaos. This time, we’re inspired by her consistent optimism and drive to perform, despite a few serious injuries along the way, which nearly every climber can relate to.

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The Climbing Fall that Almost Took My Leg

Pushing through and climbing on between surgeries.

One fall changed everything for Clara, and led to years of battling surgeries, recovery, and intense fear. Today she shares her story with us.

Recently a friend of mine sent me an article comparing the risk of injury from climbing to other sports. Interestingly, climbing had a lower incidence of injury compared to sports like basketball and soccer. And when you think about it, it makes sense – most of our gear doesn’t actually help us climb better, it’s just there to keep us safe. Yet, we still think of climbing as a fairly high risk activity. I think it’s because we know that aside from a pulley tear here or there, climbing injuries, while rare, can be catastrophic.

I learned that lesson the hard way. A slip and a fall – 20 feet runout above my last piece, a #2 c4 – landed me in the hospital. But I was lucky; what gear I had was good, and it saved my life. I escaped with “just” a broken leg and a few scrapes. Having lived a pretty active life, I was no stranger to injuries so I was pretty sanguine about the entire situation. In fact, we drove back to NYC from the Gunks before checking in at the hospital. Plus, I got used to reading stories of climbers who had decked, broken both legs and their back and were climbing 5.13 again after just a few months. So I figured I’d be sitting the rest of the season out, and then would be back at it in time for the spring.

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