Akiyo earned silver in the last Lead World Cup and overall in the 2013 Boulder World Cup
24-year-old Japanese climber and competition circuit hotshot, Akiyo Noguchi, adds herself to the list of women who have sent Mind Control 8c+/5.14c, in Oliana, Spain. This was Akiyo’s first 8c+, and she managed to send it in just 5 tries. This route has, without a doubt, seen more female ascents than any other line of the grade, which got me thinking, “Why are so many women climbing Mind Control?” In a Rock and Ice article, Barbara Raudner says that she was inspired to try the route after Daila Ojeda made the first female ascent in 2012. Sasha DiGiulian offers up another explanation in Chris Noble’s book Women Who Dare, saying, “Mind Control is an example of a resistance-oriented climb. It’s fifty-five meters of pure resistance, without too many powerful or dynamic moves. I think when technique and resistance are the key factors, you’ll logically see more female ascents.” Whether it’s inspiration from others, the route’s style, or, most likely, a combination of factors, we are psyched to see women feeding off each other and, in a way, claiming Mind Control. Akiyo, congrats on your send and for inspiring females to keep on claiming this route!
Info and Photo credits: 8a.nu, rockandice.com, en.belclimb.be