Category Archives: Climbing News

Coxsey & Chon Win World Cup #5 in Austria

Shauna winning finals! Cred: The Circuit World Cup and Performance Climbing Magazine

Shauna winning finals!

This weekend was the biggest IFSC competition EVER, with 67 women and 108 men competing! The comp was hosted in the incredible Olympic Arena in Innsbruck, Austria, and the venue was completely filled up with a psyched crowd.

WOMEN:

  1. Shauna Coxsey (UK)
  2. Janja Garnbret (Slovenia)
  3. Miho Nonaka (Japan)
  4. Megan Mascarenas (USA)

MEN:

  1. Jongwon Chon (Korea)
  2. Tomoa Narasaki (Japan)
  3. Sean McColl (Canada)

More US Results:

25. Sierra Blair-Coyle
28. Lisa Chulich
41. Austin Geiman
65. Josh Larson

Even after qualifying for finals in last place, Shauna went on to dominate–winning her 4th world cup this season. It’s truly turning into an unprecedented run! Megan Mascarenas represented the US well with a 4th place finish after 2 flashes in the finals round. Local favorite Anna Stohr also managed to make her first finals for the season and lit the crowd on fire every time she stepped onto the wall.

For the men, Tomoas Narasaki continued his strong run from the last couple of comps. Sean McColl managed to finally make a final (AND a podium), after multiple 7th place finishes this year, which had left him one spot out of finals.

The next World Cup will take place in Vail, Colorado on June 10. This one is an absolute CAN’T miss as droves of US athletes will be there to put on a great show!

Climb on!
Sarah

Photo by The Circuit World Cup and Performance Climbing Magazine

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Nonaka & Fujii Win World Cup #4 in India

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Japan dominated the 4th World Cup of 2016, taking home 4 medals.

This weekend India hosted their first IFSC world cup in Mumbai. Check out the results:

WOMEN:

  1. Miho Nonaka (Japan)
  2. Monika Retschy (Germany)
  3. Akiyo Noguchi (Japan)

MEN:

  1. Kokoro Fujii (Japan)
  2. Tomoa Narasaki (Japan)
  3. Alexey Rubtsov (Russia)

US Results:

18. Lisa Chulich
27. Sarah Pearce
39. Peter Erard

The female side saw a pretty big shake up this weekend, where Shauna Coxsey, who has won all the World Cup comps this season didn’t manage to make it into finals. However, she still manages to lead in overall World Cup rankings. The Japanese team, on the other hand, had a stellar weekend with two men, Kokoro Fuji and Tomoa Narasaki, placing first and second; and two women, Miho Nonaka and Akiyo Noguchi placing first and third. For Miho and Kokoro, this was their first ever win at a World Cup.

Lisa Chulich repped the US placing 18th overall. Be sure to catch a replay of her climbing in the semi-finals stream on YouTube here.

Next week the world cup moves on to Innsbruck, Austria with many more US names competing including Megan Mascarenas, Lisa Chulich, Sierra Blair-Coyle, Josh Larson, Austin Geiman, and Benjamin Hanna.

Climb on!
Sarah

Photo from Miho’s Facebook

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Coxsey & Narasaki Win World Cup #3 in China

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So far the 2016 World Cup series is a clean sweep for Shauna Coxsey.

This weekend was the 3rd IFSC Bouldering World Cup competition of the season in Chongqing, China. Here are some of the results from the weekend:

WOMEN:

  1. Shauna Coxsey (UK)
  2. Akiyo Noguchi (Japan)
  3. Miho Nonaka (Japan)

MEN:

  1. Tomoa Narasaki (Japan)
  2. Jan Hojer (Germany)
  3. Johgwon Chon (Korea)

Also, a big congrats to Sierra Blair-Coyle (the only US athlete to compete) for making it into her first Semi-Finals of the season. She ended Qualifiers in 19th and moved up to 12th! Another huge congrats to Shauna Coxsey, who took home her THIRD consecutive win for the season, a feat rarely done. The last to accomplish it was Akiyo Noguchi in the 2014 season. For the men, the relatively unknown 19-year-old Tomoa Narasaki won the comp as the only male with 3 tops in finals. The men’s competition has been especially stiff this year with no single competitor having qualified for all finals this season.

Next weekend is a speed-only competition in Nanjing, China with no Americans competing. But, May 14 will be back to bouldering in Mumbai, India with 4 Americans, including Lisa Chulich. Stay tuned!

Climb on!
Sarah

Photo credit: The Circuit World Cup and Performance Climbing Magazine

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Coxsey & Gelmanov Win World Cup #2 in Japan

Photo credit: Shauna's Instagram

So far Shauna Coxsey is 2 for 2 in the 2016 Series. Photo credit: Shauna’s Instagram

120 climbers competed in the 2nd IFSC Bouldering World Cup of the 2016 season in Kazo, Japan this past weekend. Hope you guys all got a chance to enjoy the live stream. Here are the podium winners and US results from the past weekend.

WOMEN:

  1. Shauna Coxsey (UK)
  2. Melissa Le Neve (France)
  3. Miho Nonaka (Japan)

MEN:

  1. Rustam Gelmanov (Russia)
  2. Michael Piccolruaz (Italy)
  3. Kokoro Fuji (Japan)

US Results:

21. Sierra Blair-Coyle (one attempt away from making Semi-Finals)
52. Juliana Price
68. Peter Erard

After topping all the finals boulders Shauna earned a well-deserved victory, her 2nd of the season! After an injury last year she had to sit out many of the competitions, but has now recovered and plans to attend all the events this season. Previous bouldering world champion and Japanese favorite Akiyo Noguchi placed 20th, after not topping any of the semi-finals climbs, but the 18 year old Miho Nonaka stepped up for Japan and managed to make it onto the podium with 2 tops in finals. Sierra Blair Coyle is the only US climber who will be continuing on to the next competition this coming weekend in Chongqing , China. Tune in next week for more climbing goodness!

Climb on!
Sarah

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Ashima is the First Female to Send V15!

Ashima Shiraishi V15

Ashima Shiraishi climbing Horizon (V15). Photo from Ashima’s Instagram.

Today Ashima Shiraishi announced that she sent Horizon (V15/8C) in Hiei, Japan, making her the first female and youngest climber EVER to climb V15! Horizon was first climbed by Dai Koyamada in 2015, who told 8a.nu that the boulder, “has 30 moves, the first half is endurance while the second half requires power and endurance for continuous hard sequences.” Of her send Ashima says, “My dream came true!!!!!!! 😍 I can’t believe that I have become the 1st female to do a V15 and the youngest person ever!!!!” She goes on to thank Dai and announces that we will be able to watch her send in Reel Rock 11.

Huge congratulations to Ashima! We cannot wait to see the film of your send and continue to watch you take the climbing world by storm!

Climb on!
Mary

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Slovenians Markovic and Garnbret Crush in Catalunya

Janja Garnbret climbingMina Markovic climbing

Mina Markovic (left) and Janja Garnbret (right) made personal and national history in Catalunya, Spain yesterday. Markovic, the overall World Cup champ in both 2011 and 2012, has become the first Slovenian woman to climb 9a/5.14d with her send of La Fabela Pa La Enmienda. On her Instagram she says she is, “…Very pleased about the gift that Santa brought to me – new project, great line! 🙂 But, just few days after, I have already put it down. My first 9a is done!”

Following in Mina’s footsteps, 16-year-old Janja Garnbret flashed Rollito Sharma (8c/5.14b) while in Spain. Of both her and Mina’s sends Janja says, “Wow! What a day!! 😄 A huge success!!” Clearly the ladies of Slovenia are strong and psyched. Congrats to Mina and Janja!

Climb on!
Mary

Info and photo credit: Mina’s Instagram, Janja’s Instagram, 8a.nu

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Climbing Video: Fun in Flatanger

To brighten up this dreary week, we’re happy to share a cheerful video from Generation Up!, featuring buddies Ashima Shiraishi and Kai Lightner on a recent trip to Norway, the land of fishing, fearsome Vikings, and the Flatanger Cave. Still in their early teens, these young guns are paving the way for the next generation of elite climbers, with impressive accomplishments already under their belts.

It’s fun to watch the duo work through challenging problems with a combination of Ashima’s outdoor experience, Kai’s honed indoor technique, and the sheer enthusiasm of these two young climbers out to push their limits and just have fun (and Ashima’s plug to inspire girls to climb hard didn’t hurt, either). By the end of the trip, it seems Ashima was able to convince Kai just how awesome outdoor sport climbing can be, despite his initial reservations about those “crazy, hippie people who live out of their vans and don’t shower.”
Climb on!
Emily & Beth

Girl Crush of the Month: Janja Garnbret

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Janja stopping the show at this year’s La Sportiva Legends Only Comp. Photo by Lars Lindwall.

This past weekend our girl crush of the month, 16-year-old Janja Garnbret, dominated at the women’s only La Sportiva Legends Only Competition. I’m not using the word dominated for effect either; she completed all 5 problems in just 7 total tries, while the other competitors completed 3 problems… combined. So who were these other climbers then? Only repeated World Cup medalists Anna Stöhr, Juliane Wurm, Shauna Coxsey, and Melissa Le Neve. Her performance at this comp alone was enough to pique our interest and reminded us that young guns are coming up and they’re coming up strong.

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Sport Climbing Likely in 2020 Olympics

2020 Olympic hopeful, Ashima Shiraishi

2020 Olympic hopeful, Ashima Shiraishi

The organizing committee for the 2020 Olympics met in Tokyo today and proposed that sport climbing be included in the 2020 Summer Games. The proposal also included karate, surfing, skateboarding, and baseball and softball (under a combined bid). The organizing committee says, “This package of events represents both traditional and emerging, youth-focused events, all of which are popular both in Japan and internationally.” The proposal is highly likely to be accepted by the International Olympic Committee, but the final decision will not be made until August 2016.

So, basically huge news for the climbing community this morning. One more way our dear sport is taking on a life of its own, evolving, growing, and spreading into mainstream media. It’s pretty lovable, no wonder everyone’s digging it.

Climb on!
Mary

Sources: The Wall Street Journal, BBC, IFSC, Ashima’s Instagram

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Climbing in the Year 2030: Climbing Mentality

Photo credit: Royal Robbins

The mental fortitude that Lynn Hill demonstrates could be a focus in the future of climbing. Photo credit: Royal Robbins

Over the last two weeks, climber and author John Burgman, has looked into climbing’s crystal ball and predicted how the sport might change over the next 15 years. Today we go back to the future one last time and take a look at potential changes to climbing mentality. 

In a recent Ask Me Anything on Reddit, Lynn Hill was asked about the mental side of climbing, and she responded with her opinion that focus and mental fortitude don’t come so much from other people, rather they are strengthened within oneself. This was an appropriate answer because for a long time external resources—experts, websites, classes and books—that targeted the mental side of climbing did not exist. As a result, for many climbers, diving into psychological motivations and working on mental toughness for routes—or bouldering problems—long involved a sort of jury-rigged hodgepodge of non-climbing sources forcefully poured into one’s own climbing mold; take a meditation exercise that you learned in a yoga class, combine it with a visualization technique from a self-help podcast, use a little of that anti-anxiety breathing technique that a former roommate taught you, and apply it all to whatever crux is tripping you up at your crag.

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