Category Archives: Climbing News

Coxsey & Narasaki Win World Cup #3 in China

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So far the 2016 World Cup series is a clean sweep for Shauna Coxsey.

This weekend was the 3rd IFSC Bouldering World Cup competition of the season in Chongqing, China. Here are some of the results from the weekend:

WOMEN:

  1. Shauna Coxsey (UK)
  2. Akiyo Noguchi (Japan)
  3. Miho Nonaka (Japan)

MEN:

  1. Tomoa Narasaki (Japan)
  2. Jan Hojer (Germany)
  3. Johgwon Chon (Korea)

Also, a big congrats to Sierra Blair-Coyle (the only US athlete to compete) for making it into her first Semi-Finals of the season. She ended Qualifiers in 19th and moved up to 12th! Another huge congrats to Shauna Coxsey, who took home her THIRD consecutive win for the season, a feat rarely done. The last to accomplish it was Akiyo Noguchi in the 2014 season. For the men, the relatively unknown 19-year-old Tomoa Narasaki won the comp as the only male with 3 tops in finals. The men’s competition has been especially stiff this year with no single competitor having qualified for all finals this season.

Next weekend is a speed-only competition in Nanjing, China with no Americans competing. But, May 14 will be back to bouldering in Mumbai, India with 4 Americans, including Lisa Chulich. Stay tuned!

Climb on!
Sarah

Photo credit: The Circuit World Cup and Performance Climbing Magazine

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Coxsey & Gelmanov Win World Cup #2 in Japan

Photo credit: Shauna's Instagram

So far Shauna Coxsey is 2 for 2 in the 2016 Series. Photo credit: Shauna’s Instagram

120 climbers competed in the 2nd IFSC Bouldering World Cup of the 2016 season in Kazo, Japan this past weekend. Hope you guys all got a chance to enjoy the live stream. Here are the podium winners and US results from the past weekend.

WOMEN:

  1. Shauna Coxsey (UK)
  2. Melissa Le Neve (France)
  3. Miho Nonaka (Japan)

MEN:

  1. Rustam Gelmanov (Russia)
  2. Michael Piccolruaz (Italy)
  3. Kokoro Fuji (Japan)

US Results:

21. Sierra Blair-Coyle (one attempt away from making Semi-Finals)
52. Juliana Price
68. Peter Erard

After topping all the finals boulders Shauna earned a well-deserved victory, her 2nd of the season! After an injury last year she had to sit out many of the competitions, but has now recovered and plans to attend all the events this season. Previous bouldering world champion and Japanese favorite Akiyo Noguchi placed 20th, after not topping any of the semi-finals climbs, but the 18 year old Miho Nonaka stepped up for Japan and managed to make it onto the podium with 2 tops in finals. Sierra Blair Coyle is the only US climber who will be continuing on to the next competition this coming weekend in Chongqing , China. Tune in next week for more climbing goodness!

Climb on!
Sarah

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Ashima is the First Female to Send V15!

Ashima Shiraishi V15

Ashima Shiraishi climbing Horizon (V15). Photo from Ashima’s Instagram.

Today Ashima Shiraishi announced that she sent Horizon (V15/8C) in Hiei, Japan, making her the first female and youngest climber EVER to climb V15! Horizon was first climbed by Dai Koyamada in 2015, who told 8a.nu that the boulder, “has 30 moves, the first half is endurance while the second half requires power and endurance for continuous hard sequences.” Of her send Ashima says, “My dream came true!!!!!!! 😍 I can’t believe that I have become the 1st female to do a V15 and the youngest person ever!!!!” She goes on to thank Dai and announces that we will be able to watch her send in Reel Rock 11.

Huge congratulations to Ashima! We cannot wait to see the film of your send and continue to watch you take the climbing world by storm!

Climb on!
Mary

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Slovenians Markovic and Garnbret Crush in Catalunya

Janja Garnbret climbingMina Markovic climbing

Mina Markovic (left) and Janja Garnbret (right) made personal and national history in Catalunya, Spain yesterday. Markovic, the overall World Cup champ in both 2011 and 2012, has become the first Slovenian woman to climb 9a/5.14d with her send of La Fabela Pa La Enmienda. On her Instagram she says she is, “…Very pleased about the gift that Santa brought to me – new project, great line! 🙂 But, just few days after, I have already put it down. My first 9a is done!”

Following in Mina’s footsteps, 16-year-old Janja Garnbret flashed Rollito Sharma (8c/5.14b) while in Spain. Of both her and Mina’s sends Janja says, “Wow! What a day!! 😄 A huge success!!” Clearly the ladies of Slovenia are strong and psyched. Congrats to Mina and Janja!

Climb on!
Mary

Info and photo credit: Mina’s Instagram, Janja’s Instagram, 8a.nu

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Climbing Video: Fun in Flatanger

To brighten up this dreary week, we’re happy to share a cheerful video from Generation Up!, featuring buddies Ashima Shiraishi and Kai Lightner on a recent trip to Norway, the land of fishing, fearsome Vikings, and the Flatanger Cave. Still in their early teens, these young guns are paving the way for the next generation of elite climbers, with impressive accomplishments already under their belts.

It’s fun to watch the duo work through challenging problems with a combination of Ashima’s outdoor experience, Kai’s honed indoor technique, and the sheer enthusiasm of these two young climbers out to push their limits and just have fun (and Ashima’s plug to inspire girls to climb hard didn’t hurt, either). By the end of the trip, it seems Ashima was able to convince Kai just how awesome outdoor sport climbing can be, despite his initial reservations about those “crazy, hippie people who live out of their vans and don’t shower.”
Climb on!
Emily & Beth

Girl Crush of the Month: Janja Garnbret

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Janja stopping the show at this year’s La Sportiva Legends Only Comp. Photo by Lars Lindwall.

This past weekend our girl crush of the month, 16-year-old Janja Garnbret, dominated at the women’s only La Sportiva Legends Only Competition. I’m not using the word dominated for effect either; she completed all 5 problems in just 7 total tries, while the other competitors completed 3 problems… combined. So who were these other climbers then? Only repeated World Cup medalists Anna Stöhr, Juliane Wurm, Shauna Coxsey, and Melissa Le Neve. Her performance at this comp alone was enough to pique our interest and reminded us that young guns are coming up and they’re coming up strong.

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Sport Climbing Likely in 2020 Olympics

2020 Olympic hopeful, Ashima Shiraishi

2020 Olympic hopeful, Ashima Shiraishi

The organizing committee for the 2020 Olympics met in Tokyo today and proposed that sport climbing be included in the 2020 Summer Games. The proposal also included karate, surfing, skateboarding, and baseball and softball (under a combined bid). The organizing committee says, “This package of events represents both traditional and emerging, youth-focused events, all of which are popular both in Japan and internationally.” The proposal is highly likely to be accepted by the International Olympic Committee, but the final decision will not be made until August 2016.

So, basically huge news for the climbing community this morning. One more way our dear sport is taking on a life of its own, evolving, growing, and spreading into mainstream media. It’s pretty lovable, no wonder everyone’s digging it.

Climb on!
Mary

Sources: The Wall Street Journal, BBC, IFSC, Ashima’s Instagram

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Climbing in the Year 2030: Climbing Mentality

Photo credit: Royal Robbins

The mental fortitude that Lynn Hill demonstrates could be a focus in the future of climbing. Photo credit: Royal Robbins

Over the last two weeks, climber and author John Burgman, has looked into climbing’s crystal ball and predicted how the sport might change over the next 15 years. Today we go back to the future one last time and take a look at potential changes to climbing mentality. 

In a recent Ask Me Anything on Reddit, Lynn Hill was asked about the mental side of climbing, and she responded with her opinion that focus and mental fortitude don’t come so much from other people, rather they are strengthened within oneself. This was an appropriate answer because for a long time external resources—experts, websites, classes and books—that targeted the mental side of climbing did not exist. As a result, for many climbers, diving into psychological motivations and working on mental toughness for routes—or bouldering problems—long involved a sort of jury-rigged hodgepodge of non-climbing sources forcefully poured into one’s own climbing mold; take a meditation exercise that you learned in a yoga class, combine it with a visualization technique from a self-help podcast, use a little of that anti-anxiety breathing technique that a former roommate taught you, and apply it all to whatever crux is tripping you up at your crag.

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Strong Climbing: Not Your Average Comp

Julia Sikut pulling on the wall at BKB Somerville.

Julia Sikut pulling on the wall at BKB Somerville.

Sunday, May 31st, OutdoorFest, Brooklyn Boulders, and Adaptive Climbing Group will be hosting Strong Climb: An Adaptive Climbing Competition. Let’s just say this isn’t your average climbing competition, it’s more like the kind of comp that Charles Darwin would’ve dreamed up. Sponsored by Adidas Outdoors and organized by Adaptive Climber, Kareemah Batts, the competition will challenge both able-bodied and adaptive climbers to compete in adaptive style climbing. Later in the event, Adidas athlete and three time national lead climbing champion, Delaney Miller, and sponsored paraclimber Julia Sikut will compete in the various challenges.

Delaney, National Lead Climbing Champion, and Julia, Pro Paraclimber, will compete in the competition

Delaney, National Lead Climbing Champion, and Julia, Pro Paraclimber, will be competing.

While the competition aims to raise awareness and money for the Adaptive Climbing group, Delaney explained that she became involved “because it also helps to bring a stronger sense of community between adaptive climbers and the rest of the climbing community. When I went to compete in the World Championship in Gijon, it felt like the USA Team was split between the para-climbers and fully abled climbers. My hope is that events like this will help unite the climbing community so that everyone feels connected, regardless of ability or health.” Julia Sikut was one of the para-climbers competing at the World Championships in Gijon. She also leads weekly adaptive climbing sessions at BKB Somerville. She hopes that participants and observers “may learn about different body types and what they can achieve. I don’t think anyone would assume its ‘easy’ for someone to climb with one arm, or for someone to climb without the use of legs. But sometimes people (disabled or not)  inaccurately assess the abilities of others just based on first glance. I hope this competition gives all different body types a chance to accurately represent themselves and what they are capable of doing.”
The three categories of competition are:

“Climbing Blind”: Paired competition, climber is blindfolded. Climber must stay on route. Best time, most holds on while climbing, wins.

“Look Ma! Just Hands”: Climber must climb routes by campusing only (no feet).

“Hop to It”: Climber to choose one leg to climb with for entire route and cannot switch feet during route.

Each challenge will be run by someone who has the disability that the station attempts to replicate, and will share their experience as an adaptive climber. “Watching climbers push themselves outside of their comfort zones is always inspirational and exciting,” shared Delaney. In fact, for Julia, climbing was one of the first adaptive sports she tried after an accident left her paralyzed from the waist down. Says Julia, “I enjoy the problem solving and independence.” Outdoor Fest Founder Sarah Knapp explained, “While climbing competitions and fundraisers happen all the time, this event is taking it to the next level and providing an experience for everyone that will hopefully change perspectives and build community.”

Climb on! ~Cate

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Watch Ashima Send Her First 9a/+

Last month Ashima Shiraishi became the youngest person yet and one of just two females to have ever sent 9a/+ (5.14d/5.15a). Want to know what it looks like to send 9a/+? Check out Petzl’s just released video of the thirteen-year-old sending Open Your Mind Direct in Catalunya. As for her final words on the climb? “Finally… That was so, like, surreal.”

Climb on!
Mary

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