Category Archives: Inspiration

5 Quick Tips to up your Photo Game at the Crag

Philip Quade shooting Claire Bukowski in Rifle, Colorado. Photo by Todd Bukowski.

If you’re heading out on a climbing trip this winter and want to take some amazing pictures, Phillip Quade is here to help. He’s an adventure photographer from Canada and has shot everything from IFSC comps to remote boulders in Alaska and Australia. His Instagram is completely drool-worthy, and not just because his photos are fantastic but because his life seems to be one big adventure with some of the world’s greatest climbers. Thankfully for us, he has kindly volunteered his best tips to help you get the perfect photo on your winter adventures. Whether you’re using your iPhone or a fancy DSLR, Phillip’s advice will give you some new perspective on how to get the best shot.

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Girl Crush of the Month: Libby Peter

Libby Peter exploring steep ice in Arctic Norway. Photo credit: Ben Winston

Libby Peter exploring steep ice in Arctic Norway. Photo credit: Ben Winston

Libby Peter is one of those women who can seamlessly do it all; she’s a pioneer female mountain guide in the UK and a mother to two fearless daughters, all the while continuing to push her limits in the mountains. As a young girl, she truly believed she was scared of heights and wouldn’t be any good at climbing, even though she loved being in the hills. However, when she was selected to participate in a school expedition to Arctic Norway, she got a formal introduction to the sport and was hooked.

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Women on Lead: Q&A with Ecuadorian Climber Andrea Castillo

Today’s Women on Lead post comes to us from Sarah Anne Perry, a writer and climber currently living, climbing, and blogging from her current home base in Quito, Ecuador. Check out her blog Eat & Climb to keep up with her adventures!

Lady crusher Andrea Castillo is a climber, coach, and entrepreneur in Quito, Ecuador. She knows the Colorado-sized country’s cliffs and mountains, and as she works to get Ecuador’s women on the rock, she’s also putting its climbing on the map.

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Girl Crush of the Month: Kyra Condie

Kyra Condie has been on our girl crush radar for a long time now, and watching her take 2nd (behind Alex Puccio) at last weekend’s Portland Boulder Rally totally made it official. With her quick and aggressive climbing style, this 20-year-old Minnesotan, has made a name for herself on the competition scene. Despite setbacks, like 10 fused vertebrae, Kyra has managed to win Youth Bouldering Nationals and regularly podium at national and international comps.

Kyras back at age 12.

Kyra’s back at age 12.

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Reel Rock 11!

This week, we’re psyched to share the recently released Reel Rock trailer, featuring Ashima and Brette Harrington as the stars of the show (in our biased opinion, anyways). Hop on over to the Reel Rock tour website for your local showings and get some friends together to check it out.

Climb on!
Emily

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Girl Crush of the Month: Maureen Beck

Vedauwoo, Wyoming. Photo by Timpson Smith.

This month, we’re crushing on Maureen Beck, a self-proclaimed evangelist of adaptive climbing with an infectious and insatiable drive to push hard, whether training for the competition scene or finding the perfect crack to fit her stump into. It’s worth mentioning that she was born without a hand, though this hasn’t stopped her from excelling in a sport that has historically depended on having most limbs intact. Plus, she hails from our neck of the woods, born in Maine and raised on the best climbs that New Hampshire and the Adirondacks have to offer. What’s not to love?

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Women on Lead: An Interview with the Setters of Austin Bouldering Project

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In November 2015, the largest bouldering gym in the United States opened in Austin, Texas. With 50,000 square feet the Austin Bouldering Project (or ABP as it’s known by locals) shattered records. And who better to take on the job of head route setter for the massive gym than the former head route setter of their sister gym (Seattle Bouldering Project), Christine Deyo? Deyo started her setting career in Seattle and quickly moved up the ranks to become head setter before being asked to interview for the position in Austin. In Texas, Deyo is one of only 2 female head setters at the 10+ commercial gyms in the state. While a setter is in charge of putting up new routes or boulders each week, a head setter is in charge of overseeing the work of all the setters in the gym and for Christine, this includes a whopping 250 boulders in the gym at any one time, with 2 new sets going up each week.

While the setting community has historically been male dominated, these days more and more women are joining the crew. At ABP Caitlin Kirshbom and Chelsea McLofland also round out the team of 6 full time setters, a nice 50-50 ratio. I sat down to talk with Caitlin and Christine about their experiences. They have a lot of great insight into the plight of the female route-setter and a pretty refreshing viewpoint on gender dynamics in the community, plus some good advice for any setter–no matter your gender.

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From WC Champ to the WCS: An Interview with Shauna Coxsey

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On point at the Vail World Cup. Photo from Shauna’s Instagram

Shauna Coxsey stole the spotlight earlier this year at the Bouldering World Cup Series with her poise, confidence, and all-around grit and determination. She became the first Brit to win the series, and has a promising future ahead of her with the inclusion of climbing in the 2020 Olympics. We were honored to chat with her, not only because of her recent accomplishments, but her continued dedication to empowering women by founding the Women’s Climbing Symposium at the age of 18 (!!), which has taken off in popularity since 2011. Read on to hear some exciting news on who will be featured at this year’s WCS!

CXC: What is the future of comp climbing?

SC: Who knows what the future of competition climbing is. I think that things will definitely change now climbing is in the Olympics. The Olympic format is bouldering, lead climbing and speed climbing combined, so it seems that it may have an impact on the World Cups and other climbing events. Change is inevitable, but I think it can be a good thing if it’s right for the sport and done in the correct way.

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Climb4Life: An Interview with HERA Athlete Whitney Boland

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Whitney on Requiem of a Heavyweight. Photo credit Christian Fracchia.

On September 10th at MetroRock in Boston, the HERA Ovarian Cancer Foundation will be hosting their Climb4Life event with athlete Whitney Boland. I had the immense pleasure of getting know her and her work with HERA, an organization dedicated to raising awareness and money for ovarian cancer research. Though I hadn’t heard of her before, when I mentioned her name to a couple climber friends I was told by everyone that she’s a total badass. At just over five feet tall she’s known for her bold and powerful climbing style. But not only is she a fearless climber, she’s a contributing editor to Rock and Ice and long-time board member for HERA. Whitney is the real deal.

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Girl Crush of the Month: Laura Rogora

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Laura making Italian history on Grandi Gesti (9a/5.14d)

This month we’re crushing on the Ashima of Italy, Laura Rogora. The 14-year-old is the reigning Italian champion in both speed and lead disciplines and earned bronze in lead at the World Youth Championships in 2015. “Yeah, yeah, another comp kid,” you may be thinking, but Laura has impressive talent outdoors as well. Like other teenagers, she enjoys listening to music and chatting with her friends, but in her spare time she’s also become the first Italian female ever to climb 9a/5.14d with her send of Grandi Gesti. What strikes us most about Laura is her impressive focus and maturity both on and off the wall.

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