Tag Archives: 5.14d

Girl Crush of the Month: Angy Eiter

Angela Eiter on Hades, 5.14d/9a. Photo credit: Red Bull.

Angela Eiter on Hades, 5.14d/9a. Photo credit: Bernie Ruech.

We were already crushing on Angela “Angy” Eiter long before she sent 5.14d/9a (Hades). Prior to this epic October 2014 send, Angy had been on the podium at various climbing comps 42 times, including winning the World Cups three times in a row (2004 to 2006) and winning four World Championships. Just this weekend, as we Americans were polishing off our Thanksgiving leftovers, we heard about Angy’s second 5.14d (Big Hammer). And Big Hammer is no joke: Christian Bindhammer freed the route in 2005, commenting, “Up until now I’ve never come across a single move [sic] which requires so many different types of strength and such a complex sequence of moves.” Despite Christian’s description of the route, Angy took it down over the course of ten days. Let me put this all into context: just six women in the world have climbed 5.14d/9a. Of those six, only one other woman has climbed TWO routes at 5.14d/9a – Sasha DiGiulian – and one of Sasha’s routes (Pure Imagination) was recently downgraded to 5.14c/d. So yes, Angy Eiter is kind of a big deal.

Eiter on Zauberfee (5.14c). Photo credit: Red Bull.

Eiter on Zauberfee, 5.14c/8c+. Photo credit: Red Bull.

What we love about Angy is that, despite climbing since age 11, her outdoor climbing career is just getting rolling. Last year, at age 27, Angy announced her “retirement” from comp climbing in order to focus more on coaching and climbing outdoors. “Training for competitions means intensive training on indoor walls, in the gym and right now I’m no longer willing to sacrifice everything for competitions,” said Angy. It looks as if all of the years of sacrifice are paying off. In addition to her strong work outdoors, Angy has also partnered with local Tyrol climbers to develop and run K3 Climbing Services. Pretty rad to send two 5.14d routes in your first year of “retirement”. We’re excited to see what else Eiter’s golden retirement brings.

Climb On! ~Cate

Info thanks to Angy’s website, Planet Mountain, DPM and wikipedia.  Also check out this sweet video of Angy sending Zauberfee (just make sure you click “cc” on the bottom right if you don’t speak German and need some subtitle action).

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Girl Crush of the Month: Muriel Sarkany

Muriel Sarkany on Rollito Sharma extension (8c). Photo credit: Pete O'Donovan.

Muriel Sarkany on Rollito Sharma extension (8c). Photo credit: Pete O’Donovan.

This month we’re crushing on Belgian sport climber Muriel Sarkany who had the climbing world swooning over her just a few weeks ago when she became the fourth woman ever to climb 5.14d (9a). Muriel inspires us not only because of her strength and climbing feats (she’s won 75 UIAA and IFSC World Cup titles, in addition to World and Arco Championships), but because of the time and commitment she puts into the sport. She refuses to cut corners and holds a high bar for herself. For example, Punt X, the 5.14d she recently sent, is known to be a notoriously stout and solid route, rarely repeated. Likewise, she doesn’t opt for the easy way out in her training or in projecting a route, claiming regularity to be the most important part of training. Refusing to rush the process, Muriel will regularly dedicate a minimum of two months to a specific area and climb, knowing it will take her that time to find her own sequence solutions. In addition to her dedication to the process, Sarkany remains dedicated to the sport. Her psych for climbing was initiated in her teens, and has only intensified over the last two and a half decades. So often we look for the quick fix – the 10 minute workout that will make you climb a grade harder; Muriel inspires us to put in the hard work, dedication, and time that it takes to become a better climber.

Muriel Sarkany working Fish Eye (8c). Photo credit: Julie Sprooten.

Climb on! ~Cate

Info thanks to Muriel’s blog and to Climb and More.

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