Tag Archives: Angy Eiter

Warming Up for Your Project with Angy Eiter

Angela Eiter on "Era Vella" her 3rd 9a route. Margalef, Spain. Foto: Bernardo Gimenez

Angy Eiter on Era Vella, her third 9a/5.14d route.

Today, Austrian climber and World Cup multi-medalist, Angy Eiter takes us through her strategy of warming up for projects. As one of a handful of women to ever climb 5.14d, Angy has proven that she’s doing something seriously right, so read carefully, warm up, and get on the send train.

Warming up was always an essential part when I was a competitor, and it was quite obvious to me that my best performances were linked to a good warm up. I consistently followed a strict warm up routine for 90 minutes to perform well at the right moment. Now, as I have shifted my focus to outdoor climbing, my experience as a competitive climber has enormously benefited my climbing projects. Here is the general process I follow when warming up for a project:

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Girl Crush of the Month: Angy Eiter

Angela Eiter on Hades, 5.14d/9a. Photo credit: Red Bull.

Angela Eiter on Hades, 5.14d/9a. Photo credit: Bernie Ruech.

We were already crushing on Angela “Angy” Eiter long before she sent 5.14d/9a (Hades). Prior to this epic October 2014 send, Angy had been on the podium at various climbing comps 42 times, including winning the World Cups three times in a row (2004 to 2006) and winning four World Championships. Just this weekend, as we Americans were polishing off our Thanksgiving leftovers, we heard about Angy’s second 5.14d (Big Hammer). And Big Hammer is no joke: Christian Bindhammer freed the route in 2005, commenting, “Up until now I’ve never come across a single move [sic] which requires so many different types of strength and such a complex sequence of moves.” Despite Christian’s description of the route, Angy took it down over the course of ten days. Let me put this all into context: just six women in the world have climbed 5.14d/9a. Of those six, only one other woman has climbed TWO routes at 5.14d/9a – Sasha DiGiulian – and one of Sasha’s routes (Pure Imagination) was recently downgraded to 5.14c/d. So yes, Angy Eiter is kind of a big deal.

Eiter on Zauberfee (5.14c). Photo credit: Red Bull.

Eiter on Zauberfee, 5.14c/8c+. Photo credit: Red Bull.

What we love about Angy is that, despite climbing since age 11, her outdoor climbing career is just getting rolling. Last year, at age 27, Angy announced her “retirement” from comp climbing in order to focus more on coaching and climbing outdoors. “Training for competitions means intensive training on indoor walls, in the gym and right now I’m no longer willing to sacrifice everything for competitions,” said Angy. It looks as if all of the years of sacrifice are paying off. In addition to her strong work outdoors, Angy has also partnered with local Tyrol climbers to develop and run K3 Climbing Services. Pretty rad to send two 5.14d routes in your first year of “retirement”. We’re excited to see what else Eiter’s golden retirement brings.

Climb On! ~Cate

Info thanks to Angy’s website, Planet Mountain, DPM and wikipedia.  Also check out this sweet video of Angy sending Zauberfee (just make sure you click “cc” on the bottom right if you don’t speak German and need some subtitle action).

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