Tag Archives: bouldering

Dyno-ing for People Who Can’t Jump

Dyno

Ready, set, dyno! If we can do it, so can you.

When I say I can’t dyno, I really mean I can’t dyno. There is some gravitational pull connected to my bum that increases ten fold at the exact moment I pump and release to go up. Instead of catapulting upward, I typically plummet to the ground with a loud, confidence-inspiring thud. I tried pumping, visualizing, counting, ejecting, nothing seemed to propel me in the right direction of up. After years of refusing to try any problem or route that involved a dyno, I finally admitted I had a dyno problem and needed serious help to break the process apart and then build it all back up together. Luckily climbing coach and pro, Mike Foley, was open to giving me (and by extension you!) a few pointers on the dyno process. After just three drills, I felt more confident in attempting a dyno and even managed to stick a few dynos since! Below, I’ve described the three easy drills that Mike had me do and included a quick video demonstrating each so that you could set the same drill up at your own gym. These three drills will either warm you up to practice dynos if you already feel confident in the skill, or will allow you to gradually build up to an actual dyno.

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Bouldering in the Southeast: Horse Pens 40, Rocktown & Stone Fort

Joe Chalmers working the compression of Golden Showers (V5). Rocktown.

Joe Chalmers working the compression of Golden Showers (V5).

Bouldering in the southeast this past fall season has been distressing to say the least. If you’re a southern sandstone crusader, then you’ll understand exactly what I’m talking about. Looking out your window, or on the interwebs of Weather Underground has been like sticking your precious finger skin into scalding water over and over again. The rain and humidity (no thanks to El Niño) have been an agitation to every local and visiting dirt bag. Rare windows of cold, dry days have kept us sane, and have allowed bouldering warriors such as Jimmy Webb within the means of sending the South’s first ever V15. Otherwise, dampened spirits were a norm in the fall of 2015. But this is a new year! And I’m determined to believe 2016 will provide ideal conditions. Plus, I asked Santa for send temps, and I’d like to think I’ve been good (enough) this past year for him to oblige.

So here it is folks, the Southeast’s Sandstone Winter Bouldering Circuit Extravaganza! If you want to get inspired by the South’s unique sandstone features and send some unforgettable problems, now is the time to do it. The slopers are crisp, the campsites are open, gas is cheap, and the locals will be happy to spray you with their peculiar beta. This list mentions the top three bouldering fields within the states of Alabama, Georgia, and Tennessee, as well as some other noteworthy sites along the way.

Stay safe, embrace the humidity, and happy bouldering y’all!

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3 Crucial Principles of Training for Bouldering + CXC Reader Discount!

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This article was kindly written for us by Dan Mirsky over at TrainingBeta.com, where you’ll find training programs, training articles, training videos, and a training podcast. They offer an online subscription program dedicated to training for boulderers of all abilities, the Bouldering Strength and Power Program, and in this article they’ll explain what you need to do to properly train for bouldering, whether you’re following their program or not.

Enter TrainingBeta…

Although summer is just getting started, shorter days and cooler temps will be here before you know it, so soon it’ll be time to get trained up to crush your bouldering projects. So what does that mean? Well, most hard boulder problems…

a) have bad holds that are far apart and

b) require the ability to do a continuous series of hard moves before you can stand on top and high five your buddies or scream your head off in Spanish.

The 3 Things You Need In Order To Send Harder

Sounds like you need the combination of finger strength, dynamic power, contact strength and power endurance. Here’s how you get that.

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Getting Over Topping Out

I’m not a scared climber. I don’t usually notice when I’m above my bolt, I’ll take whippers that scare onlookers more than they scare me, and even on high boulders I’ll try hard. But I’ve almost come to expect a panicky, scared feeling when topping out. Maybe it’s the pressure of the send, the fear of falling from an awkward, heel-hooked position, or probably some combination, but whatever it is freaks me out more than other climbing situations. So, to overcome it I’ve taken a few tips from our post on conquering lead climbing fear and put them into practice. Just like getting over any fear, the plan involves banking positive experiences and creating muscle memory that you can rely on. Here’s how to get over topping out:

Gain some confidence topping out boulders below your limit.

Gain some confidence topping out boulders below your limit.

Practice, Practice, Practice. Top out inside the gym and outside on easy, short boulders below your limit. If your gym has boulders that can be topped out, climb ’em! Often the gym will have jugs up there, but let’s be real here, those jugs usually don’t exist outside, so once you’ve gotten comfortable topping out using jugs, simply take them out of the problem. The lip of the boulder or flat top more closely approximates real boulders. Also boost your top-out confidence by climbing lower, easier boulders outside.

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Climber Problems: Ankle Injury

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Today our friend and physical therapist Kristen DeStefano is back. This month she shares a timely article teaching us everything we need to know about ankle injury.

It’s that time of year again when the air gets crisp and the friction is perfect. It’s time to hang up those ropes and cram your bouldering pads in the trunk! With the seasonal transition, many of you will be heading out to boulder. While bouldering is fun, it has different elements that can lead to injuries— gravity and the ground! These annoying forces make ankle sprains one of the most common injuries in athletics and recreational activities. While many of us have turned an ankle and have been able to brush it off, repeated injuries or more severe injuries can lead to chronic ankle pain and instability when they go untreated.

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Coxsey Becomes 3rd Woman to Send V14/8B+

"Psyched doesn't come close," says Coxsey of her first 8B+/V14. (Photo credit: Shauna's instagram).

“Psyched doesn’t come close,” says Coxsey of her first 8B+/V14.

In the last two weeks, Shauna Coxsey, took silver in the IFSC Bouldering World Cup, sent her second 8B at Magic Wood in Switzerland, and on July 12th became the third woman in the world to send 8B+! According to Shauna’s instagram, she sent New Base Line (V14/8B+) at Magic Wood, a line originally put up by Bernd Zangerl. “Psyched doesn’t come close,” said Coxsey of her send. Dave MacLeod calls New Base Line “one of the most iconic hard problems on the planet.” Just last week we reported on the second woman/girl to take down V14/8B+, Ashima Shirashi’s send of Golden Shadow. Clearly there’s nothing like seeing a 13-year old send 8B+ to inspire you to take down your own project. Whether Ashima factored into Shauna’s send or not, we’ve got mad respect for the 21-year-old British climber. It is interesting to note that Shauna’s first V13/8B, One Summer in Paradise, was Ashima’s 2nd V13/8B. For us everyday climbers, it is inspiring to see top level female climbers pushing, inspiring, and motivating one another to narrow the gap between female and male climbers. You go girls! 😉

Climb on! ~Cate

Information thanks to Shauna Coxsey’s blog,  Dave MacLeod’s blogPlanet Mountain, and Rock and Ice. (Photo credit: Shauna’s instagram)

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The Rise of Miho Nonaka

Innsbruck Comp

Nonaka making moves during the Innsbruck, Austria leg of the 2014 IFSC World Cup.

This month, as you know from last week, we are crushing hard on all-around-badass, and winner of this year’s Bouldering World Cup, Akiyo Noguchi. But it was brought to our attention that there was another untold story from this year’s World Cup, a story so remarkable that we would be remiss not to tell it here. Today, guest contributor John Burgman brings us the story of 17-year-old dark horse Miho Nonaka.

If the 2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup season taught us anything, it was that Japan’s Akiyo Noguchi has firmly cemented herself among the greatest competitive boulderers of our time. Aside from her physical mastery, Noguchi climbs with a degree of fluidity—a sort of natural technical polish—that harkens back to bouldering pioneer John Gill’s interest in style in a successful send. Noguchi deserves all of the attention and accolades that she is currently receiving, including headlines in just about every major world climbing news publication. But amid the buzz over Noguchi’s World Cup season, something is slipping under the radar: the remarkable effort of Noguchi’s teammate, Miho Nonaka.

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Girl Crush of The Month: Lizzy Asher

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When we first met Lizzy at last month’s Iron Maiden bouldering competition (where she took second place just behind Angie Payne, BTW) we were impressed by her technique, strength, and the way she approached the day with the poise of a seasoned competitor. Well, it turns out that’s exactly what she is (and a lot more)!  Born in Austin, Texas and currently working on her PhD in Vancouver, Lizzy’s recent participation in the comp circuit has been somewhat under the radar. “I competed with great regularity all through college and until I began my PhD program at the University of British Columbia,” she explained, “I balance climbing and my other life goals sometimes with difficulty but always with great enthusiasm and true grit…I’m not happy being exceptionally good at one thing only-I would rather be very good at a few of them!”  When Lizzy isn’t climbing, she is out to sea (like, literally, on a sea vessel) for her research in oceanography and atmospheric sciences, traveling to Antarctica, the Arctic, and the Northeast Pacific.  Yet she somehow still manages to find time to climb 5.14, boulder V11 (and work V12, but we’ll get to that), and train for the upcoming World Cup Bouldering Series. So, if you haven’t heard of Lizzy yet, we have no doubt that you soon will.  Read on to find out more about our smarty-pants, seasoned, and super strong girl crush of the month!

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Interview with a #Climbing Narcissist

Brian Runnels, aka the Climbing Narc, commentating at SCS Nationals

Brian Runnells (far left), aka the Climbing Narc, commentating at SCS Nationals

If you were obsessed with climbing in 1994, you wouldn’t have had at-the-crag access to DPM’s archive of beta videos on your smart phone. You’d have had to wait 3-4 months after the fact until Rock and Ice hit the shelves of the local gym to find out that Sasha sent a 5.14d on American soil. Climbing was forcibly more personal, local, and sub-cultural. Climbing in 2014 is an entirely different world. Not only can we find out within hours of clipping the chains that Sasha sent 5.14d, but thanks to Instagram we can see what she ate for breakfast before climbing. Whether you call it progress or commodification, it is quite clear that the reigning “King of Internet Climbing” is 30-year-old Wisconsin native, computer programmer turned blogger, Brian Runnells. Haven’t heard his name before? Try his internet persona: The Climbing Narc.

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Iron Maiden Highlight Reel

Just in case you missed Crux Crush’s first all-female bouldering comp at MetroRock last Saturday – or if you want to be inspired by some incredibly talented, strong women, or if you want to see if you made the video cut, check out Louder Than 11’s Iron Maiden highlight reel. Get psyched for spring sending!

Climb on! ~Cate

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