Tag Archives: IFSC World Cup

Why Americans Don’t Care About the Climbing World Cup

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The 2016 Overall World Cup bouldering podium: Shauna Coxsey of Great Britain, Miho Nonaka of Japan, and Melissa Le Neve of France. Photo by Liam Lonsdale via Shauna’s IG.

Every year the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) hosts a series competitions in each discipline of climbing: bouldering, sport, and speed. This year the bouldering World Cup series has come and gone, and now the sport climbing World Cup series is underway. Did you even notice? Okay, maybe you noticed, but how many comps did you watch? How many did you care about? For most of us, at least Americans, the answer sounds something like “Not many”, “Zero”, or “Huh? You mean that Euro comp?” Having covered each Bouldering World Cup competition this season on Crux Crush, we also noticed that very few of you read, commented on, or shared these posts. I’m not calling you out here, I’m just saying that we, as Americans, don’t seem to care.

There are really two sides of the not-caring-equation: the competitors and the spectators. Each side isn’t getting into it for different, but related reasons. To dig into the issues surrounding the World Cup we caught up with a bunch of American climbers who have competed in the series, including Megan Mascarenas, Margo Hayes, Ben Hanna, Sierra Blair-Coyle, Michaela Kiersch, and Josh Larson. Here’s what we found out.

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Coxsey & Chon Win World Cup #5 in Austria

Shauna winning finals! Cred: The Circuit World Cup and Performance Climbing Magazine

Shauna winning finals!

This weekend was the biggest IFSC competition EVER, with 67 women and 108 men competing! The comp was hosted in the incredible Olympic Arena in Innsbruck, Austria, and the venue was completely filled up with a psyched crowd.

WOMEN:

  1. Shauna Coxsey (UK)
  2. Janja Garnbret (Slovenia)
  3. Miho Nonaka (Japan)
  4. Megan Mascarenas (USA)

MEN:

  1. Jongwon Chon (Korea)
  2. Tomoa Narasaki (Japan)
  3. Sean McColl (Canada)

More US Results:

25. Sierra Blair-Coyle
28. Lisa Chulich
41. Austin Geiman
65. Josh Larson

Even after qualifying for finals in last place, Shauna went on to dominate–winning her 4th world cup this season. It’s truly turning into an unprecedented run! Megan Mascarenas represented the US well with a 4th place finish after 2 flashes in the finals round. Local favorite Anna Stohr also managed to make her first finals for the season and lit the crowd on fire every time she stepped onto the wall.

For the men, Tomoas Narasaki continued his strong run from the last couple of comps. Sean McColl managed to finally make a final (AND a podium), after multiple 7th place finishes this year, which had left him one spot out of finals.

The next World Cup will take place in Vail, Colorado on June 10. This one is an absolute CAN’T miss as droves of US athletes will be there to put on a great show!

Climb on!
Sarah

Photo by The Circuit World Cup and Performance Climbing Magazine

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Nonaka & Fujii Win World Cup #4 in India

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Japan dominated the 4th World Cup of 2016, taking home 4 medals.

This weekend India hosted their first IFSC world cup in Mumbai. Check out the results:

WOMEN:

  1. Miho Nonaka (Japan)
  2. Monika Retschy (Germany)
  3. Akiyo Noguchi (Japan)

MEN:

  1. Kokoro Fujii (Japan)
  2. Tomoa Narasaki (Japan)
  3. Alexey Rubtsov (Russia)

US Results:

18. Lisa Chulich
27. Sarah Pearce
39. Peter Erard

The female side saw a pretty big shake up this weekend, where Shauna Coxsey, who has won all the World Cup comps this season didn’t manage to make it into finals. However, she still manages to lead in overall World Cup rankings. The Japanese team, on the other hand, had a stellar weekend with two men, Kokoro Fuji and Tomoa Narasaki, placing first and second; and two women, Miho Nonaka and Akiyo Noguchi placing first and third. For Miho and Kokoro, this was their first ever win at a World Cup.

Lisa Chulich repped the US placing 18th overall. Be sure to catch a replay of her climbing in the semi-finals stream on YouTube here.

Next week the world cup moves on to Innsbruck, Austria with many more US names competing including Megan Mascarenas, Lisa Chulich, Sierra Blair-Coyle, Josh Larson, Austin Geiman, and Benjamin Hanna.

Climb on!
Sarah

Photo from Miho’s Facebook

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Coxsey & Narasaki Win World Cup #3 in China

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So far the 2016 World Cup series is a clean sweep for Shauna Coxsey.

This weekend was the 3rd IFSC Bouldering World Cup competition of the season in Chongqing, China. Here are some of the results from the weekend:

WOMEN:

  1. Shauna Coxsey (UK)
  2. Akiyo Noguchi (Japan)
  3. Miho Nonaka (Japan)

MEN:

  1. Tomoa Narasaki (Japan)
  2. Jan Hojer (Germany)
  3. Johgwon Chon (Korea)

Also, a big congrats to Sierra Blair-Coyle (the only US athlete to compete) for making it into her first Semi-Finals of the season. She ended Qualifiers in 19th and moved up to 12th! Another huge congrats to Shauna Coxsey, who took home her THIRD consecutive win for the season, a feat rarely done. The last to accomplish it was Akiyo Noguchi in the 2014 season. For the men, the relatively unknown 19-year-old Tomoa Narasaki won the comp as the only male with 3 tops in finals. The men’s competition has been especially stiff this year with no single competitor having qualified for all finals this season.

Next weekend is a speed-only competition in Nanjing, China with no Americans competing. But, May 14 will be back to bouldering in Mumbai, India with 4 Americans, including Lisa Chulich. Stay tuned!

Climb on!
Sarah

Photo credit: The Circuit World Cup and Performance Climbing Magazine

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Coxsey & Gelmanov Win World Cup #2 in Japan

Photo credit: Shauna's Instagram

So far Shauna Coxsey is 2 for 2 in the 2016 Series. Photo credit: Shauna’s Instagram

120 climbers competed in the 2nd IFSC Bouldering World Cup of the 2016 season in Kazo, Japan this past weekend. Hope you guys all got a chance to enjoy the live stream. Here are the podium winners and US results from the past weekend.

WOMEN:

  1. Shauna Coxsey (UK)
  2. Melissa Le Neve (France)
  3. Miho Nonaka (Japan)

MEN:

  1. Rustam Gelmanov (Russia)
  2. Michael Piccolruaz (Italy)
  3. Kokoro Fuji (Japan)

US Results:

21. Sierra Blair-Coyle (one attempt away from making Semi-Finals)
52. Juliana Price
68. Peter Erard

After topping all the finals boulders Shauna earned a well-deserved victory, her 2nd of the season! After an injury last year she had to sit out many of the competitions, but has now recovered and plans to attend all the events this season. Previous bouldering world champion and Japanese favorite Akiyo Noguchi placed 20th, after not topping any of the semi-finals climbs, but the 18 year old Miho Nonaka stepped up for Japan and managed to make it onto the podium with 2 tops in finals. Sierra Blair Coyle is the only US climber who will be continuing on to the next competition this coming weekend in Chongqing , China. Tune in next week for more climbing goodness!

Climb on!
Sarah

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The Rise of Miho Nonaka

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Nonaka making moves during the Innsbruck, Austria leg of the 2014 IFSC World Cup.

This month, as you know from last week, we are crushing hard on all-around-badass, and winner of this year’s Bouldering World Cup, Akiyo Noguchi. But it was brought to our attention that there was another untold story from this year’s World Cup, a story so remarkable that we would be remiss not to tell it here. Today, guest contributor John Burgman brings us the story of 17-year-old dark horse Miho Nonaka.

If the 2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup season taught us anything, it was that Japan’s Akiyo Noguchi has firmly cemented herself among the greatest competitive boulderers of our time. Aside from her physical mastery, Noguchi climbs with a degree of fluidity—a sort of natural technical polish—that harkens back to bouldering pioneer John Gill’s interest in style in a successful send. Noguchi deserves all of the attention and accolades that she is currently receiving, including headlines in just about every major world climbing news publication. But amid the buzz over Noguchi’s World Cup season, something is slipping under the radar: the remarkable effort of Noguchi’s teammate, Miho Nonaka.

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Girl Crush of the Month: Akiyo Noguchi

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Akiyo on the podium as the 2014 IFSC Boulder World Cup Champ

Just last weekend, 25-year-old, Japanese climber Akiyo Noguchi clinched the title of 2014 IFSC Boulder World Cup Champion for the 3rd time in her climbing career! Since 2008, she and Anna Stöhr have bounced back and forth as overall champ each year (’08, ’11, ’12, ’13: Stöhr; ’09, ’10, ’14: Noguchi), but this time Akiyo edged out the competition. You may already be thinking, “Okay, okay, another super strong comp boulderer;” slow your roll and let me tell you that not only is Akiyo an accomplished boulderer, she also has several podium finishes in Lead World Cup comps and some stellar outdoor sends on boulders and routes.

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IFSC World Cup Begins with German Victory

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Juliane Wurm wins the first of 8 competitions in the World Cup Series

Last night (or early this morning, depending on your time zone), marked the first IFSC Bouldering World Cup competition of 2014. It was the first in a series of 8 competitions that will eventually crown the strongest competition climbers in the world. In 2013, the series was dominated by Austrian climber, Anna Stöhr, who took first place in 7 of the 8 competitions. Last night in Chongqing, China both the women’s and men’s competitions were won by German climbers: Juliane Wurm and Jan Hojer . Here’s how the results shook out:

Women
1st – Juliane Wurm (Germany)
2nd – Shauna Coxsey (Great Britain)
3rd – Akiyo Noguchi (Japan)
4th – Alex Puccio (USA)
5th – Anna Stöhr (Austria)

Men
1st – Jan Hojer (Germany)
2nd – Dmitrii Sharafutdinov (Russia)
3rd – Jorg Verhoeven (Netherlands)
4th – James Kassay (Australian)
5th – Guillaume Glairon Mondet (France)

The second competition of the series will take place on May 3rd and 4th in Baku, Azerbaijan. For more details on the comp and how to watch it streaming check out the IFSC website. And in the meantime, get schooled on all things World Cup in our guide to the competition series.

Climb on!
Mary

Photo Credit: Juliane Wurm’s Facebook

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Recent Sends and Upcoming World Cup

_540452-243852499056506-100002952748845-434420-1701908343-n-1338515206Michaela Kiersch on Swingline (5.13d) in Red River Gorge in 2012

We don’t have any epically groundbreaking sends to report on this week, but several ladies are still getting out there and pushing it. Here are a few notable sends from the week:

  • Austrian climber Martina Harnisch sends Babylon, 8a+ (5.13c), in her home country.
  • American Michaela Kiersch takes down Pushin’ Up Daisies, 8a+ (5.13c), at Red River Gorge, KY.
  • Hannah Midtbø of Norway sends Akkurat der, 7C+ (V10) and describes it as, “Really cool! Funky start, difficult to hit the last hold before the topout.”
  • 12-year-old Giorgia Tesio, who we featured in our Young Guns post, sends Cinq et demie, 7B (V8), in Fontainebleau, France.

If you’re rained in this weekend, like us in New England, you can catch the fourth round of the 2013 Bouldering World Cup streaming from Log-Dragomer, Slovenia.  Finals air on Sunday, May 12th at 7pm (you’ll have to convert that from Log-Dragomer local time) and you can watch the whole comp steaming live on the IFSC site.

(Info and photo credits: 8a.nu, fiveten.com)

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Watch the 2013 SCS Nationals Today!

Catch all your favorites, including reigning champs Sasha DiGiulian and Vasya Vorotnikov, on today’s live stream of the 2013 Sport Climbing Series Nationals beginning at 6:30 MDT (that’s 8:30 EST). Finals will be streaming live on http://lt11.com/tv/ and http://climbingnarc.com/. If that doesn’t fill your daily climbing comp needs, you can also catch the IFSC World Cup Finals from Millau, France streaming today at http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/.

Climb on!
-Mary

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