Tag Archives: IFSC

Why Americans Don’t Care About the Climbing World Cup

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The 2016 Overall World Cup bouldering podium: Shauna Coxsey of Great Britain, Miho Nonaka of Japan, and Melissa Le Neve of France. Photo by Liam Lonsdale via Shauna’s IG.

Every year the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) hosts a series competitions in each discipline of climbing: bouldering, sport, and speed. This year the bouldering World Cup series has come and gone, and now the sport climbing World Cup series is underway. Did you even notice? Okay, maybe you noticed, but how many comps did you watch? How many did you care about? For most of us, at least Americans, the answer sounds something like “Not many”, “Zero”, or “Huh? You mean that Euro comp?” Having covered each Bouldering World Cup competition this season on Crux Crush, we also noticed that very few of you read, commented on, or shared these posts. I’m not calling you out here, I’m just saying that we, as Americans, don’t seem to care.

There are really two sides of the not-caring-equation: the competitors and the spectators. Each side isn’t getting into it for different, but related reasons. To dig into the issues surrounding the World Cup we caught up with a bunch of American climbers who have competed in the series, including Megan Mascarenas, Margo Hayes, Ben Hanna, Sierra Blair-Coyle, Michaela Kiersch, and Josh Larson. Here’s what we found out.

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The Rise of Miho Nonaka

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Nonaka making moves during the Innsbruck, Austria leg of the 2014 IFSC World Cup.

This month, as you know from last week, we are crushing hard on all-around-badass, and winner of this year’s Bouldering World Cup, Akiyo Noguchi. But it was brought to our attention that there was another untold story from this year’s World Cup, a story so remarkable that we would be remiss not to tell it here. Today, guest contributor John Burgman brings us the story of 17-year-old dark horse Miho Nonaka.

If the 2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup season taught us anything, it was that Japan’s Akiyo Noguchi has firmly cemented herself among the greatest competitive boulderers of our time. Aside from her physical mastery, Noguchi climbs with a degree of fluidity—a sort of natural technical polish—that harkens back to bouldering pioneer John Gill’s interest in style in a successful send. Noguchi deserves all of the attention and accolades that she is currently receiving, including headlines in just about every major world climbing news publication. But amid the buzz over Noguchi’s World Cup season, something is slipping under the radar: the remarkable effort of Noguchi’s teammate, Miho Nonaka.

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Guide to the World Cup Climbing Series

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Next scheduled World Cup competition, June 1-2 in Toronto

From groundbreaking sends, to changes in crag access, to international climbing competitions, we do our best to keep up with the latest climbing news and events. However, while covering climbing news over the past few months, I’ve come across one competition series that completely baffles me: the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) World Cup series. For example, why does it seem like there’s a World Cup every weekend? And how can there be more than one World Cup in the first place? Who gets to compete? Why aren’t we seeing more American women in the mix? And what the heck do the ‘t’s’ and ‘b’s’ mean?

So here goes my attempt at deciphering the 97 page handbook

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IFSC Boulder World Cup 2013 Results

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The results of the International Federation of Sport Climbing Boulder World Cup are in! Congrats to podium finishers Anna Stöhr from Austria (1st, pictured above), Momoka Oda from Japan (2nd), and the US’s own Alex Puccio (3rd). You can check out the full results list here. Unfortunately, the event was streaming live from Chongqing, China so for us it was airing in the middle of the night. If you missed it like us, don’t fret, the IFSC will be releasing replay videos and we’ll have them here on Crux Crush as soon they’re out. Interestingly, out of 22 women, Alex Puccio was the only American to qualify into semi-finals, highlighting just how strong she is and also how incredibly strong lady-boulderers are worldwide.

Climb on!

-Mary

(Photo credit: http://www.mammut.ch/)

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