Tag Archives: Juliane Wurm

Girl Crush of the Month: Janja Garnbret

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Janja stopping the show at this year’s La Sportiva Legends Only Comp. Photo by Lars Lindwall.

This past weekend our girl crush of the month, 16-year-old Janja Garnbret, dominated at the women’s only La Sportiva Legends Only Competition. I’m not using the word dominated for effect either; she completed all 5 problems in just 7 total tries, while the other competitors completed 3 problems… combined. So who were these other climbers then? Only repeated World Cup medalists Anna Stöhr, Juliane Wurm, Shauna Coxsey, and Melissa Le Neve. Her performance at this comp alone was enough to pique our interest and reminded us that young guns are coming up and they’re coming up strong.

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IFSC World Cup Begins with German Victory

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Juliane Wurm wins the first of 8 competitions in the World Cup Series

Last night (or early this morning, depending on your time zone), marked the first IFSC Bouldering World Cup competition of 2014. It was the first in a series of 8 competitions that will eventually crown the strongest competition climbers in the world. In 2013, the series was dominated by Austrian climber, Anna Stöhr, who took first place in 7 of the 8 competitions. Last night in Chongqing, China both the women’s and men’s competitions were won by German climbers: Juliane Wurm and Jan Hojer . Here’s how the results shook out:

Women
1st – Juliane Wurm (Germany)
2nd – Shauna Coxsey (Great Britain)
3rd – Akiyo Noguchi (Japan)
4th – Alex Puccio (USA)
5th – Anna Stöhr (Austria)

Men
1st – Jan Hojer (Germany)
2nd – Dmitrii Sharafutdinov (Russia)
3rd – Jorg Verhoeven (Netherlands)
4th – James Kassay (Australian)
5th – Guillaume Glairon Mondet (France)

The second competition of the series will take place on May 3rd and 4th in Baku, Azerbaijan. For more details on the comp and how to watch it streaming check out the IFSC website. And in the meantime, get schooled on all things World Cup in our guide to the competition series.

Climb on!
Mary

Photo Credit: Juliane Wurm’s Facebook

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Girl Crush of the Month: Juliane Wurm

Jule on Rhino (7B+), Micy Wiswedel. (Photo credit: Jule's facebook)

Jule on Rhino (7B+) in Rocklands, South Africa. Photo by Micky Wiswedel.

We here in the US may be a little late to to jump on the “We’ve got a crush on Juliane Wurm” fan-wagon, but hey, better late than never! (The Europeans always seem to be ahead of us with the trends!) Until last month, we’d heard little mention of German Juliane Wurm in the US. That was until the 24-year-old showed up in Texas and quietly swept first place at the Hueco Rock Rodeo and the American Bouldering Series’ Nationals just a week later. Jule’s strength, technique, and precision are impeccable, as is her dedication to constant improvement and training. In talking about her competition experiences, she seems to not take winning or her strength for granted, understanding that to be the best, she must train the hardest. Hence her decision to take the current semester of university off to focus on climbing, and the rad home wall and training set up in her house.

Wurm training at her home wall.

Wurm training at her home wall. Photo from Jule’s facebook

In 2013, Wurm placed first at the Innsbruck World Cup. Despite having much to boast about, we admire Jule for her modest approach to climbing and winning and how clearly her climbing passion shines through. Currently, she is ranked 5th in the world in the World Cup series. Although she is better known for her competition climbing, she is quickly gaining traction for her hard sends outdoors. In an interview with Mad Rock, she shared, “My all-time project is to climb outside more often.” In the span of just a couple of weeks in the US, Jule ticked off six 8A/8A+ boulders! Next up for Jule is the Tierra Boulder Battle – and perhaps another first place finish!

Climb on! ~Cate

Info thanks to Juliane’s blog and facebookMammut, Adidas, and Mad Rock.

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ABS Nationals Results

Alex Puccio and Daniel Woods vying to hold onto their 2013 Nationals' titles. (Photo credit: Climbing Magazine Instagram)

Alex Puccio and Daniel Woods trying to hold onto their 2013 titles at this year’s ABS Nationals. (Photo credit: Climbing Magazine Instagram)

Setting challenging finals problems for the likes of Alex Puccio, Alex Johnson, Jule Wurm, Angie Payne, Megan Mascarenas, Margo Hayes, and Grace McKeehan would be an exceptionally difficult task. Yet, the setters for the American Bouldering Series (ABS) Nationals rose to the occasion, delivering challenging yet interesting problems for the seven strong finalists. After Friday Qualifiers and Saturday morning Semi-Finals, these seven ladies powered through, ready to put their bouldering prowess to the test. Competitions are often so obviously tilted toward one competitor, however, it truly came down to the very last problem to see who would emerge as the winner. Angie Payne and Megan Mascarenas had strong starts, whereas Alex Puccio started off shaky. Sixteen year olds Margo Hayes and Grace Mckeehan also each had moments when it seemed the tables could turn in favor of any competitor.

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