Tag Archives: Melissa Le Neve

Coxsey & Gelmanov Win World Cup #2 in Japan

Photo credit: Shauna's Instagram

So far Shauna Coxsey is 2 for 2 in the 2016 Series. Photo credit: Shauna’s Instagram

120 climbers competed in the 2nd IFSC Bouldering World Cup of the 2016 season in Kazo, Japan this past weekend. Hope you guys all got a chance to enjoy the live stream. Here are the podium winners and US results from the past weekend.

WOMEN:

  1. Shauna Coxsey (UK)
  2. Melissa Le Neve (France)
  3. Miho Nonaka (Japan)

MEN:

  1. Rustam Gelmanov (Russia)
  2. Michael Piccolruaz (Italy)
  3. Kokoro Fuji (Japan)

US Results:

21. Sierra Blair-Coyle (one attempt away from making Semi-Finals)
52. Juliana Price
68. Peter Erard

After topping all the finals boulders Shauna earned a well-deserved victory, her 2nd of the season! After an injury last year she had to sit out many of the competitions, but has now recovered and plans to attend all the events this season. Previous bouldering world champion and Japanese favorite Akiyo Noguchi placed 20th, after not topping any of the semi-finals climbs, but the 18 year old Miho Nonaka stepped up for Japan and managed to make it onto the podium with 2 tops in finals. Sierra Blair Coyle is the only US climber who will be continuing on to the next competition this coming weekend in Chongqing , China. Tune in next week for more climbing goodness!

Climb on!
Sarah

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Girl Crush of the Month: Janja Garnbret

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Janja stopping the show at this year’s La Sportiva Legends Only Comp. Photo by Lars Lindwall.

This past weekend our girl crush of the month, 16-year-old Janja Garnbret, dominated at the women’s only La Sportiva Legends Only Competition. I’m not using the word dominated for effect either; she completed all 5 problems in just 7 total tries, while the other competitors completed 3 problems… combined. So who were these other climbers then? Only repeated World Cup medalists Anna Stöhr, Juliane Wurm, Shauna Coxsey, and Melissa Le Neve. Her performance at this comp alone was enough to pique our interest and reminded us that young guns are coming up and they’re coming up strong.

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Girl Crush of The Month: Mélissa Le Nevé

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Last month, at age 25, our Girl Crush Mélissa did the first female ascent of Wallstreet (8c/5.14b) in Frankenjura, Germany. This historic climb was the first ever of its grade, and was established by Wolfgang Güllich in 1987. It has seen relatively few repeat ascents in its 30+ years. So what inspired Mélissa to take on this challenge? “I really wanted to try this route for two reasons,” she says in her interview with Planet Mountain, “first of all because I really like the history of this route…Wolfgang Güllich set an important milestone in the history of sport climbing.  The other reason why I really wanted to climb this route is connected to the its name, Wallstreet reminds me of Pink Floyd and their album The Wall. Not long ago I was really into this music…two good reasons to at least give it a go!” Indeed! Another reason this was a historic send? Because I’m pretty sure she has broken the record for the craziest looking heel hook:

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Tierra Boulder Battle Backstage Pass

Here’s a video from the 2013 Tierra Boulder Battle highlighting some of the boulder problems and the ladies’ experience in Stockholm. Totally made me want to go hang out with them in Sweden! I’d still love to see the whole event and check out the types of problems each competitor set, so I’ll keep you posted if that gets released. For now, enjoy the “backstage pass” video!

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