Tag Archives: Sasha Digiulian

Halloween Climber Costumes

Looking for a last minute Halloween costume that you can throw together and wear to your local gym’s black light boulder party? Here’s a few ideas…

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Happy Halloween & Climb on! ~Cate

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Mar Álvarez sends Era Vella, 9a/5.14d

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Mar Álvarez on Tripa de Conejo (8b+) in Rodellar, Spain

34-year-old Spanish climber Mar Álvarez has thrown down in Margalef, Spain by sending Era Vella (9a/5.14d)! The route was established in 2009 by Chris Sharma and has since seen almost 20 repeats. The only woman to have climbed the route before Mar was Sasha Digiulian back in 2012. This marks Mar’s first 5.14d and of the route she says, “It’s a dream come true. I never thought I could string it together.” To get a sense of the route check out the raw footage of Sasha on Era Vella below. Congrats to Mar, and keep the strong sends coming!

Climb on!
Mary

Info and Photo Credit: 8a.nucpfotografia.com.

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The Night Ashima Beat DWoods: Ring of Fire 2014

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Now that I’ve finally picked my jaw up off the floor, I can sit down to recap last night’s Ring of Fire sport climbing competition finals at Central Rock Gym in Watertown, MA. OK, about the title, she didn’t EXACTLY beat Daniel Woods, but it was pretty amazing (I’ll explain below). First I have to say, I couldn’t imagine a more perfect setting for in an indoor ropes comp. The 50 foot, overhung lead wall that is the centerpiece of the CRG Watertown gym is the impressive stage, and the spectators can watch the action comfortably from two different levels in the gym. The lighting, music, and emceeing were all on point, the energy was high, and everyone was having a great time. And the setting! Wow. The setting was made for high drama, with big dynamics, weirdo clipping stances, knee bars, and fun inverted movements that had competitors hanging from their toes! So who rose to the top of this stacked competition? Read on to find out.

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Akiyo Noguchi Repeats Mind Control: Gets Us Thinking “Why Do Ladies Love This Line?”

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Akiyo earned silver in the last Lead World Cup and overall in the 2013 Boulder World Cup

24-year-old Japanese climber and competition circuit hotshot, Akiyo Noguchi, adds herself to the list of women who have sent Mind Control 8c+/5.14c, in Oliana, Spain. This was Akiyo’s first 8c+, and she managed to send it in just 5 tries. This route has, without a doubt, seen more female ascents than any other line of the grade, which got me thinking, “Why are so many women climbing Mind Control?” In a Rock and Ice article, Barbara Raudner says that she was inspired to try the route after Daila Ojeda made the first female ascent in 2012. Sasha DiGiulian offers up another explanation in Chris Noble’s book Women Who Dare, saying, “Mind Control is an example of a resistance-oriented climb. It’s fifty-five meters of pure resistance, without too many powerful or dynamic moves. I think when technique and resistance are the key factors, you’ll logically see more female ascents.” Whether it’s inspiration from others, the route’s style, or, most likely, a combination of factors, we are psyched to see women feeding off each other and, in a way, claiming Mind Control. Akiyo, congrats on your send and for inspiring females to keep on claiming this route!

Climb on!
-Mary

Info and Photo credits: 8a.nu, rockandice.com, en.belclimb.be

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Muriel Sarkany Sends Punt-X 9a/5.14d

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Muriel sending her first 8c+, Ultimate Sacrifice, back in 2012

Muriel Sarkany has climbed her first 9a/5.14d with the burly overhanging route Punt-X in Gorges du Loup. The 39-year-old has an impressive competition history, winning the Overall World Cup five times and earning runner-up three times. In 2010 she stopped competing, but obviously hasn’t put climbing behind her. On her Facebook page she reports, “YES I DID IT!!! I just did my first 9a, Punt-X !!! I’m so happy!!!!!!!!!! A lot of work but so much pleasure when I clipped the anchor ;-)”  With this send she joins Josune Bereziartu, Sasha DiGiulian, and Charlotte Durif in the elite “9a Club”. Congrats Muriel!

Climb on!
-Mary

Photo and Info credit: www.desnivel.com, Ramon Bayon, and 8a.nu

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The Low Down on the Heist

The 6 finalists in The Heist prior to the unveliing of the 2 finals'boulder problems and 1 finals sport route: Meagan Martin, Delaney Miller, Francesca Metcalf, Angie Payne, Kyra Condie, and Sasha DiGiulian

The 6 finalists in The Heist: Meagan Martin, Delaney Miller, Francesca Metcalf, Angie Payne, Kyra Condie, and Sasha DiGiulian

As youth competitors, Lily Canavan, Gabby Harden, and Olivia Ray pointed out at The Heist, in what other sport do you have the opportunity to be cheered on by the best of the best in the sport? Yet, that was exactly the environment created last Saturday as Meagan Martin, Sasha DiGiulian, Angie Payne and other pros sat alongside their fellow Heist competitors, analyzing, strategizing, and beta-sizing the comp’s problems. Crux Crush took this opportunity to talk with the finalists and citizen competitors about the comp, their inspirations, and their predictions about the future. Today, we share their responses and some images of their strength.

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STARS – THEY’RE JUST LIKE US!

Have you ever caught yourself gushing to your friend about Sasha’s latest send, only to have your friend reply, “Who’s Sasha and what did she send you?” Yep, that happened.

While I can’t believe I’m admitting this publicly, one of my secret indulgences is US Weekly. Last week while indulging on vacation, I came across my favorite section of US Weekly: “Stars – They’re Just Like US!” (If you have no idea what I’m talking about, see here.) And I got thinking, what if climbers actually were famous?

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Climb on! ~Cate

Photo credits from top left to bottom right: Matilda Soderlund’s blog, Enterprise Climbing Walls, Beth Rodden’s blog, Petzl Sports’ PhotoStream.

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Sasha Earns FFA of Bellavista (5.14b/8c)

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Sasha DiGiuilian in the Dolomites, prior to starting Bellavista. Photo from Sasha’s Facebook.

Sasha Digiulian’s switching up her game, and continuing to crush while she’s at it. Although the recent PscioBloc champ typically does not climb multi-pitch, she’s clearly pushing her own limits (and those of the female climbing world) with the first female ascent of Alexander Huber’s Bellavista in the Italian Dolomites. Only six other climbers have freed all of the pitches which traverse one of the largest roofs in the Dolomites. The multi-pitch climb goes at 7b, 6c, 6a+, 7a+, 7b, 8c, 8a, 7a, 6c, 6b, a proud send for Sasha, who climbed the route with Edu Marin! The climb did not come easy, as Sasha reported on her facebook:

“After climbing through a big storm for the final pitches, and spending a bitter cold, wet night at the top of Tre Cime Oeste, I’m down and happy to report the First Female ‪ascent‬ of Bellavista, 8c, a 2-year dream of mine to climb!”

Bellavista, which crosses one of the biggest roofs in the Dolomites, was first climbed free by Alex Huber in 2001 and has since been repeated by Mauro Bole, Helmut Kotter, David Lama, Luka Krajnc, Dani Moreno and now Sasha Digiulian.

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Psicobloc Recap with Delaney Miller

Sasha DiGuilian atop the wall at Psicobloc

Delaney Miller atop the wall at Psicobloc

Over the weekend pro climbers from around the world gathered in Park City, Utah to climb, party, and take 50 foot falls into Utah Olympic Park’s 750,000-gallon freestyle aerial training pool, at the Psicobloc Masters Series. Inspired by the first Psicobloc competition in Spain in 2011, this comp featured a 50-foot wall of 5.13c climbing for the women and 5.14b climbing for the men, with no ropes and only a pool to break their falls. Every type of climber was represented, from legend Lynn Hill, to young phenom Sacha DiGiulian, to powerhouse boulderer Alex Johnson. 16 female and 16 male climbers competed head-to-head in single elimination rounds until there was 1 woman and 1 man remaining. Here’s how it all shook out:

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