Tag Archives: Shauna Coxsey

From WC Champ to the WCS: An Interview with Shauna Coxsey

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On point at the Vail World Cup. Photo from Shauna’s Instagram

Shauna Coxsey stole the spotlight earlier this year at the Bouldering World Cup Series with her poise, confidence, and all-around grit and determination. She became the first Brit to win the series, and has a promising future ahead of her with the inclusion of climbing in the 2020 Olympics. We were honored to chat with her, not only because of her recent accomplishments, but her continued dedication to empowering women by founding the Women’s Climbing Symposium at the age of 18 (!!), which has taken off in popularity since 2011. Read on to hear some exciting news on who will be featured at this year’s WCS!

CXC: What is the future of comp climbing?

SC: Who knows what the future of competition climbing is. I think that things will definitely change now climbing is in the Olympics. The Olympic format is bouldering, lead climbing and speed climbing combined, so it seems that it may have an impact on the World Cups and other climbing events. Change is inevitable, but I think it can be a good thing if it’s right for the sport and done in the correct way.

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Coxsey & Chon Win World Cup #5 in Austria

Shauna winning finals! Cred: The Circuit World Cup and Performance Climbing Magazine

Shauna winning finals!

This weekend was the biggest IFSC competition EVER, with 67 women and 108 men competing! The comp was hosted in the incredible Olympic Arena in Innsbruck, Austria, and the venue was completely filled up with a psyched crowd.

WOMEN:

  1. Shauna Coxsey (UK)
  2. Janja Garnbret (Slovenia)
  3. Miho Nonaka (Japan)
  4. Megan Mascarenas (USA)

MEN:

  1. Jongwon Chon (Korea)
  2. Tomoa Narasaki (Japan)
  3. Sean McColl (Canada)

More US Results:

25. Sierra Blair-Coyle
28. Lisa Chulich
41. Austin Geiman
65. Josh Larson

Even after qualifying for finals in last place, Shauna went on to dominate–winning her 4th world cup this season. It’s truly turning into an unprecedented run! Megan Mascarenas represented the US well with a 4th place finish after 2 flashes in the finals round. Local favorite Anna Stohr also managed to make her first finals for the season and lit the crowd on fire every time she stepped onto the wall.

For the men, Tomoas Narasaki continued his strong run from the last couple of comps. Sean McColl managed to finally make a final (AND a podium), after multiple 7th place finishes this year, which had left him one spot out of finals.

The next World Cup will take place in Vail, Colorado on June 10. This one is an absolute CAN’T miss as droves of US athletes will be there to put on a great show!

Climb on!
Sarah

Photo by The Circuit World Cup and Performance Climbing Magazine

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Coxsey & Narasaki Win World Cup #3 in China

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So far the 2016 World Cup series is a clean sweep for Shauna Coxsey.

This weekend was the 3rd IFSC Bouldering World Cup competition of the season in Chongqing, China. Here are some of the results from the weekend:

WOMEN:

  1. Shauna Coxsey (UK)
  2. Akiyo Noguchi (Japan)
  3. Miho Nonaka (Japan)

MEN:

  1. Tomoa Narasaki (Japan)
  2. Jan Hojer (Germany)
  3. Johgwon Chon (Korea)

Also, a big congrats to Sierra Blair-Coyle (the only US athlete to compete) for making it into her first Semi-Finals of the season. She ended Qualifiers in 19th and moved up to 12th! Another huge congrats to Shauna Coxsey, who took home her THIRD consecutive win for the season, a feat rarely done. The last to accomplish it was Akiyo Noguchi in the 2014 season. For the men, the relatively unknown 19-year-old Tomoa Narasaki won the comp as the only male with 3 tops in finals. The men’s competition has been especially stiff this year with no single competitor having qualified for all finals this season.

Next weekend is a speed-only competition in Nanjing, China with no Americans competing. But, May 14 will be back to bouldering in Mumbai, India with 4 Americans, including Lisa Chulich. Stay tuned!

Climb on!
Sarah

Photo credit: The Circuit World Cup and Performance Climbing Magazine

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Coxsey & Gelmanov Win World Cup #2 in Japan

Photo credit: Shauna's Instagram

So far Shauna Coxsey is 2 for 2 in the 2016 Series. Photo credit: Shauna’s Instagram

120 climbers competed in the 2nd IFSC Bouldering World Cup of the 2016 season in Kazo, Japan this past weekend. Hope you guys all got a chance to enjoy the live stream. Here are the podium winners and US results from the past weekend.

WOMEN:

  1. Shauna Coxsey (UK)
  2. Melissa Le Neve (France)
  3. Miho Nonaka (Japan)

MEN:

  1. Rustam Gelmanov (Russia)
  2. Michael Piccolruaz (Italy)
  3. Kokoro Fuji (Japan)

US Results:

21. Sierra Blair-Coyle (one attempt away from making Semi-Finals)
52. Juliana Price
68. Peter Erard

After topping all the finals boulders Shauna earned a well-deserved victory, her 2nd of the season! After an injury last year she had to sit out many of the competitions, but has now recovered and plans to attend all the events this season. Previous bouldering world champion and Japanese favorite Akiyo Noguchi placed 20th, after not topping any of the semi-finals climbs, but the 18 year old Miho Nonaka stepped up for Japan and managed to make it onto the podium with 2 tops in finals. Sierra Blair Coyle is the only US climber who will be continuing on to the next competition this coming weekend in Chongqing , China. Tune in next week for more climbing goodness!

Climb on!
Sarah

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Girl Crush of the Month: Janja Garnbret

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Janja stopping the show at this year’s La Sportiva Legends Only Comp. Photo by Lars Lindwall.

This past weekend our girl crush of the month, 16-year-old Janja Garnbret, dominated at the women’s only La Sportiva Legends Only Competition. I’m not using the word dominated for effect either; she completed all 5 problems in just 7 total tries, while the other competitors completed 3 problems… combined. So who were these other climbers then? Only repeated World Cup medalists Anna Stöhr, Juliane Wurm, Shauna Coxsey, and Melissa Le Neve. Her performance at this comp alone was enough to pique our interest and reminded us that young guns are coming up and they’re coming up strong.

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Facing the Possible: Interview with Shauna Coxsey

Shauna Coxsey on New Base Line (V14/8B+)

Shauna Coxsey on New Base Line (V14/8B+). Photo: Shauna’s blog.

Four women in the world have sent 8B+/V14. Two British women competed in the 2014 IFSC Bouldering World Cup Finals. Only one woman has sent New Base Line (8B+/V14). The common denominator is none other than 21-year-old Shauna Coxsey whose climbing resume is as admirable as her reflective, humble, and mature character. We picked Shauna’s brain about her recent successes, experiences, and what motivates her to climb hard.

CXC: When we heard about you becoming the 3rd woman in the world to send V14/8B+, we had just reported on Ashima becoming the 2nd woman to do so. We liked picturing in our heads, you seeing Ashima’s Instagram, putting the phone down, and being like, “If she was the 2nd, I’m going to be the 3rd!” Did this happen at all? Do female sends like Ashima’s or Hazel’s influence your climbing more than seeing someone like Adam Ondra or Alex Honnold? 

SC: I read about Ashima’s ascent the day after falling at the end of New Base Line (V14/8B+). I thought it would be really cool for two women to climb V14 in the same week! However, I was really worried about the weather in Magic Wood so that took up most of my attention. I love hearing about hard ascents and I think it’s really exciting to hear about the boundaries of the sport being pushed. The sends that inspire me most are the ones that people work hard for. I think it is inspiring to see anyone at any level pushing their own personal limits and boundaries!

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Big Weekend Sends for Payne and Puccio

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Angie slaying her nemesis, Freaks of The Industry (V13).

Clearly something is in the air in Rocky Mountain National Park, because serious sendage went down this weekend! To kick the weekend off, Angie Payne sent her 4-year-long, self-proclaimed “nemesis” of a project Freaks of The Industry (V13). Then on Saturday, Alex Puccio, fresh off her first V13’s just a couple weeks ago, she sends Jade (V14). And here we are, still trying to pick our jaws up off the floor. Both women have achieved something really amazing here, it’s hard to know where to begin, but each send is truly mind-blowing for very different reasons.

We caught up with Angie last winter, when she had already put 50 days into this project. 50 days. On her blog Angie says of Freaks“Freaks is a nemesis that surpasses all nemeses I have ever had. This is not the first time I have invested multiple seasons in a boulder problem, but it is the first time I have experienced a mental battle of this magnitude… I have tried countless mental approaches—getting angry, relaxing, letting my mind wander, repeating a mantra as I climb, screaming, rhythmic breathing, acting like my life depends on it, pretending I couldn’t care less about it, even drawing positive reminders on my arm—you name it, I have probably tried it. But the battle continues.” Just think about all that for a second. Really appreciate that struggle for a moment. And then, you know those times when you’ve worked on something for like 3 days (or let’s face it, like 3 hours) and you’re like “OMG, why can’t I do this? It’s so annoying. I’ll never be able to do this.” And then you go climb V0’s the rest of the day? No? Just me? Anyway, when I think about how much frustration she tolerated, how she was able to keep going back, year after year; it’s kind of like trying to imagine what a billion dollars really is, or like, how many stars are in the universe-very hard to wrap your head around once you start really thinking about it.

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Alex on Jade (V14) in Rocky Mountain National Park

And then of course there’s Alex. What we are loving about her right now is something completely different. Rather than super focused projecting on one specific boulder, taking months or years, Puccio is basically just getting outside, taking a break from comp climbing, having some fun, and seeing what see is capable of. In our interview with her in March (just before she won her eighth ABS nationals championship) she shared with us that climbing outside is really her reprieve from the comp circuit, “I have so much stress in competition that when I go outside I finally don’t have to feel like I’m training for something. When I go outside I’m like, ‘I don’t just have 5 minutes to do a boulder.’ It’s quite nice. It’s refreshing.” At that time that she had climbed fourteen V12’s, and thought she was capable of V13, but just hadn’t found the right one yet. Well, she found the right two, Nuthin’ But Sunshine and Top Notch in RMNP within a week of one another, and then Jade, swiftly making her the 4th woman in history to climb V14. Not to mention this particular V14 is known as one of the hardest boulder problems in the world. This line was initially a project of Dave Graham’s, and graded at V15. Daniel Woods earned the FA in 2007 (video from Big UP) and it was then repeated by many big names including Jimmy Webb, Carlo Traversi, after which it was decidedly graded a solid V14.

Both Payne and Puccio are so inspiring in what they have achieved. Added to the list of other historic sends lately (Ashima, Shauna Coxsey), we feel pretty certain that the first ever V15 send by woman could happen any day now. In the meantime, we want to say thanks for giving us new energy and excitement to push ourselves in our own climbing, and we’ll be on the edge of our seats to see what happens next!

Climb On!

-Missy

Photo Credits: Matty Hong and Joel Kerr

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Coxsey Becomes 3rd Woman to Send V14/8B+

"Psyched doesn't come close," says Coxsey of her first 8B+/V14. (Photo credit: Shauna's instagram).

“Psyched doesn’t come close,” says Coxsey of her first 8B+/V14.

In the last two weeks, Shauna Coxsey, took silver in the IFSC Bouldering World Cup, sent her second 8B at Magic Wood in Switzerland, and on July 12th became the third woman in the world to send 8B+! According to Shauna’s instagram, she sent New Base Line (V14/8B+) at Magic Wood, a line originally put up by Bernd Zangerl. “Psyched doesn’t come close,” said Coxsey of her send. Dave MacLeod calls New Base Line “one of the most iconic hard problems on the planet.” Just last week we reported on the second woman/girl to take down V14/8B+, Ashima Shirashi’s send of Golden Shadow. Clearly there’s nothing like seeing a 13-year old send 8B+ to inspire you to take down your own project. Whether Ashima factored into Shauna’s send or not, we’ve got mad respect for the 21-year-old British climber. It is interesting to note that Shauna’s first V13/8B, One Summer in Paradise, was Ashima’s 2nd V13/8B. For us everyday climbers, it is inspiring to see top level female climbers pushing, inspiring, and motivating one another to narrow the gap between female and male climbers. You go girls! 😉

Climb on! ~Cate

Information thanks to Shauna Coxsey’s blog,  Dave MacLeod’s blogPlanet Mountain, and Rock and Ice. (Photo credit: Shauna’s instagram)

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IFSC World Cup Begins with German Victory

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Juliane Wurm wins the first of 8 competitions in the World Cup Series

Last night (or early this morning, depending on your time zone), marked the first IFSC Bouldering World Cup competition of 2014. It was the first in a series of 8 competitions that will eventually crown the strongest competition climbers in the world. In 2013, the series was dominated by Austrian climber, Anna Stöhr, who took first place in 7 of the 8 competitions. Last night in Chongqing, China both the women’s and men’s competitions were won by German climbers: Juliane Wurm and Jan Hojer . Here’s how the results shook out:

Women
1st – Juliane Wurm (Germany)
2nd – Shauna Coxsey (Great Britain)
3rd – Akiyo Noguchi (Japan)
4th – Alex Puccio (USA)
5th – Anna Stöhr (Austria)

Men
1st – Jan Hojer (Germany)
2nd – Dmitrii Sharafutdinov (Russia)
3rd – Jorg Verhoeven (Netherlands)
4th – James Kassay (Australian)
5th – Guillaume Glairon Mondet (France)

The second competition of the series will take place on May 3rd and 4th in Baku, Azerbaijan. For more details on the comp and how to watch it streaming check out the IFSC website. And in the meantime, get schooled on all things World Cup in our guide to the competition series.

Climb on!
Mary

Photo Credit: Juliane Wurm’s Facebook

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Women’s Climbing Symposium 2013

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We were fortunate enough to have Zofia Reych of the popular UK blog Up That Rock share with us her coverage and takeaways from this past weekend’s Women’s Climbing Symposium in London.  Read on for Zofia’s full scoop from across the pond!

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