Tag Archives: Siurana

Climbing and Culture in Catalunya

Haley climbing in sector Esperó Primavera in Siurana

Haley climbing in sector Esperó Primavera in Siurana.

Ever wanted to drop everything, find some work in Spain, and live out your climbing dreams? Guest author, Haley Ross, did just that, and today she’s giving us the inside scoop on living and climbing in Catalunya. 

Spain, and more specifically Catalunya, has gained world-renowned climbing status with its legendary crags like Siurana, Margalef, Oliana, and Montserrat. In recent years, the climbing community has grown dramatically, with professionals and novices alike moving here to take advantage of the endless opportunities. If you’re lucky, you’ve gotten the chance to explore some of the truly exquisite climbing, but what if you decided to call Catalunya your home? I had barely dabbled in the climbing world before moving to Spain in 2012 to try my hand at teaching English abroad. I imagined staying for a few months, maybe a year, but that all changed the day I started climbing. I was instantly hooked on the sport for all of the common reasons: physical exercise, being in nature, the sense of community and positive atmosphere. But climbing here seemed to posses something distinguished, one-of-a-kind, with an extremely fanatical, almost (and by ‘almost’ I mean totally) addictive quality. I’ve now been living, teaching, and climbing in Catalunya for the past two years and have no intention of leaving. You’ve probably heard about the “magic” of Catalunya, or even had the chance to visit, but what is it really like to call it home? Why has it become such a climbing “mecca” and what makes it so special?

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Alizée Dufraisse: Falling In Love

“The relation I have with the route, it’s like a lot of love…it’s a story between the route and me.”

Alizée may have been talking about falling in love with a specific route, but this video makes us fall in love with her and her approach to climbing and life. We’ve reported on Alizée’s passion for climbing before and for some time now she’s caught our attention with her first female ascents of El Mon de Sofi (5.14a) and La Reina Mora (5.14b/d), and her send of Patinoso (5.14c). If you aren’t already swooning, here’s a little clip from Prana about Alizée Dufraisse that takes place in the fairyland of Siurana, Spain, that will make you fall a little in love with the French climber as well as give you some inspiration to get you through your hump day.

While we’re at it, we also want to give Sasha DiGiulian a high five for her onsight of Hard Crit (8a+) at Margarlef, and also shout out Aleksandra Taistra for her send of Florida L1 (8a+) at Rodellar.

Climb on! ~Cate

Info thanks to 8a.nu and Prana Ambassadors.

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Weekend Sends

Katharina Saurwein

As the weather is warming up, so is the sending train! Here’s a few highlights from the weekend:

  • Matilda Söderlund continues her hot streak, flashing Dogma 8b+ (5.14a) at Siurana.
  • Kasia Pietras and Meagan Martin continue their crushing streak in Switzerland, where Meagan sent Pamplemousse 8A (V11) at Brione.
  • Mar  Álvarez sent Devoramingas 8a (5.13b) in Montsant.
  • Closeby, in  Öztal/Tumpen (Austria), Katharina Saurwein sent Stick It, 7C+, coming off her hot streak shown above on Fake Pamplemousse 8A (V11), Ticino, Switzerland.

Photo by Jorg Verhoeven. Info thanks to 8a.nu.

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Alizée Dufraisse Puts in Hard Work at Siurana

As I’m sitting here contemplating having a lazy Saturday or getting my butt out there to run and go to the gym, this video of Alizée Dufraisse working Broadway 8c+/9a (5.14c/d) in Siurana popped up in my inbox (thanks Keith ;)). SPOILER ALERT – she does not send…this time. But what Alizée does is remind me of the hard work and effort that it takes to climb at that  next level. Undeniably, Alizée is brutally strong, has exceptional footwork, and a holy-cow strong core. Yet, more than that, in every move, you can see how hard she is trying, how hungry she is for the send, and how much effort she has and is putting into this climb. In the end, it is THAT which will allow her to succeed, and which motivates me to get off my couch and to the gym. Happy Saturday!

Climb on! ~Cate

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Matilda’s on a Hot Streak – Sends 8C(+)

03_10_Matilda

Matilda Söderlund is certainly making the most of her weekend.  Yesterday we reported on her recent on-sights and flashes in Margalef, Spain and today she sends Pati Noso, 8c(+), in Siurana (pictured above).  To all you Americans, yes, that is 5.14b/c!  She is the second female to send this route, behind Alizée Dufraisse, another badass female climber who you can find more about at http://alizeedufraisse.blogspot.com/.

Congrats to both women for totally crushing it and thanks for continuing to inspire us!

-Mary

(Photo credit: Jonus Wilklund; Info thanks to UKClimbing.com)

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