Tag Archives: training

Tips from the Pros: For Beginners

A photo posted by Crux Crush (@cruxcrush) on

Today, Alex Beale from 99Boulders — a site focusing on climbing gear and training — joins us to share training advice he dug up from some of the world’s greatest climbers.

1. Alex Honnold

On what he would do if he had to coach a beginner climber:

“If I was trying to train someone to be a good rock climber, I would focus on movement and technique and footwork… The right things [in climbing] are movement and technique. So how you move over the rock. It has nothing to do with how well you can hold on or how hard you pull. It has to do with knowing where your center of mass is and being able to move your body around in the right way so that you can stay balanced over your feet and you can move yourself upward with your feet.”

Source: The Tim Ferriss Show

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Pull-Ups: The DIY Manual

pull ups cate

One of the most commonly asked questions by those who have just gotten into climbing and want to improve is, “How do I work up to doing a pull-up?” Today on Crux Crush, Galina Parfenov, professional climber and climbing trainer shares her step by step manual to working up to doing a pull-up.

This is probably the number one question I get asked by clients, YouTubers, climbing and fitness fanatics alike.  Actually, it’s a question I never considered until recently. I started gymnastics when I was about eight, and prior to that I had spent a majority of my life hanging from and doing pull-ups on a contraption called a Sports Complex. In other words, pull-ups had always been a part of the repertoire, hence I never had to go through the process of learning to do one as an adult.

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3 Crucial Principles of Training for Bouldering + CXC Reader Discount!

This article was kindly written for us by Dan Mirsky over at TrainingBeta.com, where you’ll find training programs, training articles, training videos, and a training podcast. They offer an online subscription program dedicated to training for boulderers of all abilities, the Bouldering Strength and Power Program, and in this article they’ll explain what you need to do to properly train for bouldering, whether you’re following their program or not.

Enter TrainingBeta…

Although summer is just getting started, shorter days and cooler temps will be here before you know it, so soon it’ll be time to get trained up to crush your bouldering projects. So what does that mean? Well, most hard boulder problems…

a) have bad holds that are far apart and

b) require the ability to do a continuous series of hard moves before you can stand on top and high five your buddies or scream your head off in Spanish.

The 3 Things You Need In Order To Send Harder

Sounds like you need the combination of finger strength, dynamic power, contact strength and power endurance. Here’s how you get that.

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No Excuses: Training From Home

No excuses! Grab that pan and get started training now!

No excuses! Grab that pan and get started training (forearm hypertrophy) now!

It’s the middle of winter and while you might be dreaming about sending your proj this summer, you’re full of excuses when it comes down to training for your summer of sending. “It’s so hard to get to the gym after work.” “There’s a driving ban because of the snow.” “If only I had a home wall…” Ya, ya, ya, we’ve heard and said it all ourselves. For today’s training post, we share 10 ways you can get fit for climbing, without even leaving your house. We’ve kept these exercises minimalist, the first five require a hangboard and the second five require only yourself.

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Actually Following a Training Plan: Review of The Rock Climber’s Training Manual

Putting my training to the test on Ginseng (5.12c) at Shagg crag, Maine.

Putting my training to the test on Ginseng Route (5.12c) at Shagg crag, Maine.

In the 7 years that I’ve been climbing, I’ve followed exactly zero training plans. It’s not that I didn’t want to get better at climbing, or that I doubted the training plan would work. The factors preventing me from training, any longer than a day, stemmed from a combination of motivation, commitment, and time management…that is, until reading the Anderson brothers’ Rock Climber’s Training Manual: A Guide to Continuous Improvement. Their approach to climbing and training worked for me for numerous reasons. I went from being unable to realistically attempt the crux moves on 5.12s, unable to even make a single move between the rungs on the campus board, and being able to do a max of three 10 lb bicep curls to sending or close to sending my three 5.12b/c projects, loving the campus board, pumping 25 lb bicep curls – all within 4 months. Here’s why the Andersons’ approach worked for me:

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Training to Crush: Galina Climberina Style

Don’t be fooled by the slender, innocent looking blonde, Galina Parfenov, who runs the dainty sounding website, “Climberina.” This girl is PURE muscle, passion, and dedication to climb and to climb hard. Galina is an absolute machine when it comes to training. And her training is paying off…big time.

Wednesday Galina released her second training video (above). We’re psyched on her video, not only because she effortlessly demos each and every part, but also because she offers creative modifications if you can’t, say, do a 1 arm pull-up, or need some help getting to the next rung on your campus board. However, what makes us most psyched on Galina is her openness in acknowledging where she started and how much she has accomplished – all which she attributes to her training (there’s still hope for us!). While still a noteworthy achievement in my book, it took Galina two years to send her first V4. It was her own passion and commitment that allowed her to persevere 6 years later on her first V11 (Gusher). Rather than make excuses if the ABS Finals didn’t go her way, Galina sees each comp and session as an opportunity to identify and train her weaknesses (although at this point, I’m sure it’s getting hard for her to identify “weaknesses”).

In her video she shares workouts for the campus board, including working power endurance and a little something she calls “Rapid Fire”. She demos using a pulley system for 1 arm pull ups, dead hangs, negatives, and frenchies. In the last section, she moves onto her core workout where she utilizes a suspension trainer. We don’t want to give away all her training tips, so give her video a look and get your training on! We’ll get a report out soon on how Galina’s training is going 😉

Climb and train on! ~Cate

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Why Ladies’ Night Makes You Climb Harder

Ladies' Night at Cate's house

Ladies’ Night at Cate’s house

In the mainstream, “Ladies’ Night” conjures memories of salacious bars trying to lure women and the men that chase them in for the evening. Whether with similar logic or not, many climbing gyms have grabbed onto this idea and so the “Ladies’ Night” phenomenon has descended upon the climbing world. It’s the night when ladies get to climb for half price, and the only night of the week when the guy to girl ratio is tilted in favor of the gentlemen. While the dudes might be capitalizing upon Ladies’ Night, I believe that the seeds have been sewn for a regime change and it all starts with forming our own little Ladies’ Night “Fight Club” army.

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3 Training Questions All Climbers Should Ask


Last week we brought you Three Training Myths for Female Climbers written for us by Steve Bechtel of Climb Strong. Today, Steve is back with three very important training questions climbers should ask themselves. Though they’re geared towards females, these questions definitely apply to guys too! So go ahead and ask yourself…

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Three Training Myths for Female Climbers

Climbing Training

Today’s post was written specifically for our site by nutrition expert, performance coach, and personal trainer, Steve Bechtel. Long before the inception of Crux Crush, we were reaping the benefits of Steve’s articles and training advice on Climb Strong and today we’re very excited to share his words of wisdom on climbing training, specifically for females. Here’s what he had to say:

Climbing is hard and training for climbing is even harder. Here’s the thing that really sucks – both of these things can be even harder if you’re a girl. Note that I said “can” be even harder. If you approach training the way that a guy does, you might be in trouble. Approach climbing and training like a woman, and not only will your ability go way up, your enjoyment of the sport will increase, too.

Earlier this year, I started talking to the girls at Crux Crush about the primary concerns and challenges out there for female climbers today. We nailed down six areas where training and climbing were fundamentally different for women and men. This article outlines three of those areas, and the ways to avoid getting trapped by conventional thinking or male-dominated tactics. The other three are discussed in Part 2: 3 Training Questions All Climbers Should Ask.

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