Tag Archives: climbing news

Sport Climbing Likely in 2020 Olympics

2020 Olympic hopeful, Ashima Shiraishi

2020 Olympic hopeful, Ashima Shiraishi

The organizing committee for the 2020 Olympics met in Tokyo today and proposed that sport climbing be included in the 2020 Summer Games. The proposal also included karate, surfing, skateboarding, and baseball and softball (under a combined bid). The organizing committee says, “This package of events represents both traditional and emerging, youth-focused events, all of which are popular both in Japan and internationally.” The proposal is highly likely to be accepted by the International Olympic Committee, but the final decision will not be made until August 2016.

So, basically huge news for the climbing community this morning. One more way our dear sport is taking on a life of its own, evolving, growing, and spreading into mainstream media. It’s pretty lovable, no wonder everyone’s digging it.

Climb on!
Mary

Sources: The Wall Street Journal, BBC, IFSC, Ashima’s Instagram

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Alizée Dufraisse Sends Coma Sant Pere, 8c+

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Alizée Dufraisse climbing in Margalef

Just a few weeks ago Alizée Dufraisse sent Aitzol, 8c (5.14b), and Via Del Quim, 8b+ (5.14a) in Margalef, Spain and mentioned on her blog that her next goal was to take down Coma Sant Pere, 8c+ (5.14c). Turns out she’s a woman of her word because she just reported sending the climb. The route took her 8 days of work and on her blog she describes it as an “athletic route” and “wonderful line”. Back in 2012 Alizée became the fourth woman to climb 9a (5.14d) with her FFA of La Reina Mora. We’ll be keeping a close eye on her blog to see if her next project happens to be 5.15 – Congrats Alizée!

Climb on!
-Mary

Info and Photo Credits: Alizée’s blog

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Alizée Dufraisse Sends 8c and 8b+ in Margalef

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During our interviews at The Heist, we asked some of the strongest American female climbers, “Who will be the first female to climb 5.15?” While there wasn’t a unanimous response, among the names speculated on was Alizée Dufraisse. Indeed, it looks as if she may well be on her way to sending 5.15. Over the last week, Alizée made quick work of Aitzol, 8c (5.14b), and Via Del Quim, 8b+ (5.14a), both routes in Margalef. We’re not exaggerating when we say “quick work”: she sent both in only 3 days. As she moves up the ladder, closer to 5.15, she already has her sight set on Coma sant Pere 8c+ (5.14c). On top of that, she’s working against her own deadline as she plans to return to the comp circuit in 2014. We have no doubt that she will take her next route down with the same graceful crushing power that she has exhibited throughout her climbing career. If you want to get a peak into what it means to give it all climbing, check out this video of Alizée that we’ve shared in the past.

Keep those fall sends coming! Climb on! ~Cate

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Dorothea Karalus Establishes One of the Hardest Boulders by a Female Ever

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Karalus on In the Cloud, V12, one of the hardest female-established boulders ever.

German climber Dorothea Karalus has earned the first ascent of In the Cloud (V12) in the Grampians, Australia. Many women have climbed harder problems, including Dorothea herself with Fragile Steps (V13) in Rocklands, but only a very small number have established V12. One such woman is Alex Puccio with her FA of Polly Pocket Sit (V12) in Val Bavona, Switzerland. On Dorothea’s blog she describes, “The boulder has two perfect and very obvious starting holds and follows a beautiful line of very small horizontal crimps with a sequence revolving around a tiny crimp and a gaston flake in the end. It is rare that you find such a pure crimp boulder that is not awkward and sharp! With the exception of the first move all the 5-6 moves are hard and uncompromisingly powerful.” To see for yourself check out the video of her send below:

We are so psyched to see women pushing these limits – Congrats Dorothea!

Climb on!
-Mary

(Info and photo credits: dorokara.wordpress.com)

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‘Tis the Season for Sending

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Paige Claassen climbing Art Attack (8c/5.14b). Photo by Rich Crowder.

Crisp fall weather has descended upon New England and many parts of the world, creating prime sending conditions. Here’s a little roundup of the ladies who’ve been taking full advantage of the cool weather and great friction:

Paige Claassen is currently traveling the world with Lead Now, a global tour to inspire people through rock climbing and raise money for women and children. While in Italy she earned the second ascent of the grueling slab climb Art Attack (8c/5.14b) at Sasso Remeno, which had not been sent since the route’s establishment in 2004. On her blog, Paige describes that she worked the route 30-40 times over a month long period in poor weather conditions and had actually given up on it. She didn’t want to leave Italy with any regrets so she gave it one last effort, and despite a lack of confidence, she sent the route. On her blog she reflects on her send, “Art Attack demonstrated the common message of persistence. Moreover, it contradicted my feeling that climbing is all about confidence – a confident climber can typically overcome mental and physical barriers and get to the top. However, through this process I learned that when confidence (in oneself, in the weather) fails, there is still a gleam of hope. Wipe the slate clean and give it one more try.”

Courtney Sanders ticked off her first V10 of the year and earned the first female ascent (FFA) of Rainbow in the Dark in Guanella Pass, Colorado. She described it as a “fun crimpy boulder!”

Our favorite 12-year-old, Ashima Shiraishi, took a trip to Red River Gorge, KY and sent two 8c+/5.14c’s, Fifty Words for Pump and 24-Karats. To top it off, she sent them in two days back-to-back, and her climb of 24-Karats was an FFA for the route. Last year she also sent two 8c+/5.14c’s in two consecutive days, which you can check out here:

Congrats ladies and keep the sends coming!

Climb on!
– Mary

Photo and Info Credit: 8a.nu, Paige Claassen’s blog, DPM Climbing

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Weekly Sends Courtesy of Ola and Alex

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Aleksandra “Ola” Taistra on Les Cadres Regeneren (8a) in Rodellar, Spain

Aleksandra “Ola” Taistra had a pretty spectacular week at La Muela in Spain, sending two 8b’s and an 8a+. That’s two 5.13d’s and one 5.13c in the span of a few days! Ola caught our eye a few months ago in this impressive video of her sending Cosi Fan Tutte (8c+/5.14c).

In bouldering news, Italian climber Alexandra Ladurner flashed Dark Dog (V10) in Zillertal, Austria. Adding to this already impressive feat, no other 8a.nu member has reported flashing this problem, male or female. Of Dark Dog, Alexandra says, “Totally unexpected. Maybe completely my style…great day!”

Climb on ladies!

(Info and Photo Credits: 8a.nu and Wojtek Kozakiewicz)

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Women Crushing all over the Place

While we’ve been digging out of Blizzard Nemo here in Boston, women over in Europe have been CRUSHING: 8c, 8c+ and M13+, to be exact.

Andrea Cartas sent Fish Eye (8c/5.14b), in Oliana, just as Adam Ondra sent the hardest line in the world, Dura Dura, right next door. In an interview on 8a.nu, Andrea talked about being inspired by Daila Ojeda, who sent Fish Eye two years ago. There’s just something about watching another woman climb that suddenly makes the impossible seem possible!

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Yes, women can wear girly braids and send 8c. Photo credit: Carlos Padilla.

A day later, Evgeniya Malamid, sent Mind Control 8c+ (5.14c), a route originally put up by Chris Sharma. In the last year, 6 other women have also sent this route – like I said, nothing like another woman to inspire you to climb harder.

And then just to top it all off, Lucie Hrozova became the first woman to climb M14. (For non ice climbers, M signifies mixed ice and rock, 14 signifying HARD). Talk about inspiration! Now get out there and start CRUSHING!

Bad ass. Photo credit: planetmountain.com. Check out their site for more amazing photos.

Bad ass. Photo credit: planetmountain.com. Check out their site for more amazing photos.

-Cate

Information thanks to 8a.nu.

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