Tag Archives: Spain

Slovenians Markovic and Garnbret Crush in Catalunya

Janja Garnbret climbingMina Markovic climbing

Mina Markovic (left) and Janja Garnbret (right) made personal and national history in Catalunya, Spain yesterday. Markovic, the overall World Cup champ in both 2011 and 2012, has become the first Slovenian woman to climb 9a/5.14d with her send of La Fabela Pa La Enmienda. On her Instagram she says she is, “…Very pleased about the gift that Santa brought to me – new project, great line! 🙂 But, just few days after, I have already put it down. My first 9a is done!”

Following in Mina’s footsteps, 16-year-old Janja Garnbret flashed Rollito Sharma (8c/5.14b) while in Spain. Of both her and Mina’s sends Janja says, “Wow! What a day!! 😄 A huge success!!” Clearly the ladies of Slovenia are strong and psyched. Congrats to Mina and Janja!

Climb on!
Mary

Info and photo credit: Mina’s Instagram, Janja’s Instagram, 8a.nu

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Climbing and Culture in Catalunya

Haley climbing in sector EsperĂł Primavera in Siurana

Haley climbing in sector EsperĂł Primavera in Siurana.

Ever wanted to drop everything, find some work in Spain, and live out your climbing dreams? Guest author, Haley Ross, did just that, and today she’s giving us the inside scoop on living and climbing in Catalunya. 

Spain, and more specifically Catalunya, has gained world-renowned climbing status with its legendary crags like Siurana, Margalef, Oliana, and Montserrat. In recent years, the climbing community has grown dramatically, with professionals and novices alike moving here to take advantage of the endless opportunities. If you’re lucky, you’ve gotten the chance to explore some of the truly exquisite climbing, but what if you decided to call Catalunya your home? I had barely dabbled in the climbing world before moving to Spain in 2012 to try my hand at teaching English abroad. I imagined staying for a few months, maybe a year, but that all changed the day I started climbing. I was instantly hooked on the sport for all of the common reasons: physical exercise, being in nature, the sense of community and positive atmosphere. But climbing here seemed to posses something distinguished, one-of-a-kind, with an extremely fanatical, almost (and by ‘almost’ I mean totally) addictive quality. I’ve now been living, teaching, and climbing in Catalunya for the past two years and have no intention of leaving. You’ve probably heard about the “magic” of Catalunya, or even had the chance to visit, but what is it really like to call it home? Why has it become such a climbing “mecca” and what makes it so special?

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Two 5.14b/8c’s for Evgeniya Malamid

In April 2013 Russian climber, Evgeniya Malamid, on-sighted Los Humildes pa Casa (5.14a/8b+) in Oliana, and  now a year later, she’s gone back to Spain for more. This time she sent two 5.14b/8c’s: La Fabelita and T1 Full Equip. In the video above she gracefully climbs the 13 bolt La Fabelita, making powerful movements when she needs to, finding a ton of creative rest positions, and completely running it out at the top. Not only does Evgeniya crush outside, but she also ranked 14th in last year’s World Cup Lead Climbing Series. We’ll definitely be looking out for her in this year’s competition circuit and for more sends like these.

Climb on!
Mary

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Alizée Dufraisse Sends Coma Sant Pere, 8c+

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Alizée Dufraisse climbing in Margalef

Just a few weeks ago AlizĂ©e Dufraisse sent Aitzol, 8c (5.14b), and Via Del Quim, 8b+ (5.14a) in Margalef, Spain and mentioned on her blog that her next goal was to take down Coma Sant Pere, 8c+ (5.14c). Turns out she’s a woman of her word because she just reported sending the climb. The route took her 8 days of work and on her blog she describes it as an “athletic route” and “wonderful line”. Back in 2012 AlizĂ©e became the fourth woman to climb 9a (5.14d) with her FFA of La Reina Mora. We’ll be keeping a close eye on her blog to see if her next project happens to be 5.15 – Congrats AlizĂ©e!

Climb on!
-Mary

Info and Photo Credits: AlizĂ©e’s blog

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