Shoe Review: Scarpa Booster S

Scarpa Booster SAs the climbing community grows and pushes the boundaries of climbing, so does the demand for high quality, aggressive shoes. Scarpa, a longtime player in the climbing shoe game, continues to evolve their designs to meet the demand of climbers and the boundaries of what a climbing shoe can do. Check out Scarpa’s latest team member, fresh out of the gate and looking for action: the Booster S.

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15 Signs You’re Actually an Amazing Belayer


Turns out you’ve been doing it right all along

1. Your catches are soft, but not in a “when is this fall going to stop?” kinda way

2. You know when to encourage and when to shut up

3. You’re attentive even though your neck hurts

4. It’s not all stop and go when you lower

5. You bring your partner their approach shoes after a climb

6. You know what to do about a ledge or a roof

7. You know that take really means take… like now

8. You’re okay with the fact that “one more try” sometimes means 20

9. To avoid harness wedgies, you’re quick with the courtesy slack

10. You learn the beta on your partner’s proj to anticipate their needs

11. You give a helping hand when your partner can’t get their footing on the ground

12. You get that belaying on the second bolt and the 10th are different things

13. You know when your partner is about to lose it

14. You keep the on-the-ground convos to a minimum

15. You’re genuinely excited for your partner’s accomplishments (even if they send your project before you)

For more on becoming a better belayer check out our posts on the importance of a soft catch and giving a better belay.

Climb on!


My Greatest Project Yet: Bringing the Climbing Spirit to Work

The author, Charllotte, lead climbing in Auburn, CA

The author, Charllotte, lead climbing in Auburn, CA

Earlier this week we talked about how climbing can help your 9 to 5. Today, Charllotte Anderson, physical therapy student and climber, shares how she applied those lessons to her 9 to 5, and ultimately became a better climber and physical therapist for it.

We aren’t all career climbers and so for many of us, many of our greatest achievements lie outside of climbing. I have found that many of the mental processes involved in progressing in climbing are similar to those involved in advancing professionally. I’ve come to recognize that learning to become a physical therapist feels a lot like learning to be a good sport leader.

“It should be here?” I looked at the guidebook photo and back up to the wall in front of me. “There’s the tree, but where’s the route?”

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How Climbing Helps Your 9 to 5

Climbing and work have more in common than we think.

Climbing and work may have more in common than you think.

Climbing as a metaphor for life is painfully obvious, but painfully true. Climbing puts us into situations that so clearly expose our strengths, weaknesses, and emotional reactions. Some situations are stressful, some blissful, some frustrating, but all reflect our daily lives. So today, at the expense of sounding incredibly cheesy, we’re going to explore how to apply the lessons of climbing to our 9 to 5s.

Challenge yourself. This is the whole point of climbing right? Whether it’s physical, mental, social or otherwise, most of us are addicted to the challenge of climbing. Work can be similarly fulfilling when you consistently face challenges and overcome them. Most things aren’t worth doing if they’re already easy.

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Girl Crush of the Month: Chelsea Rude

Check out that lock off! Photo: Francois Lebeau

You can never use your negative ape index as an excuse again. Why? Chelsea Rude. With a -3 ape index her nickname is T-Rex, but that hasn’t stopped her one bit. As Chelsea puts it, “Don’t make excuses. Get up and go make your dreams a reality.”

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The Climbing Doctor’s Warm-Up

Today on Crux Crush, Physical Therapist, Dr. Vagy, shares a video and description of his research based, climbing specific warm-up, that has pros like Jonathan Siegrist psyched. (His warm-up was previously described on DPM Climbing, with still photos of each of the stretches).

Let’s face it, nobody likes warming-up before they climb. It’s not sexy, not cool and takes a lot of time. Well, what if there was a solution where you could mirror the exact movements that you perform on the rock wall, but on the ground? Would you warm-up more often? Check out this new climbing specific warm-up that is supported by the latest research evidence and can be performed in less than 10 minutes. View the video above of professional climber Jonathan Siegrist performing the warm-up and learn to climb injury free.

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Climbing with Tourette Syndrome


Hi. My name is Cyane. I love being outdoors, I positively adore climbing and, oh, yeah… I have Tourette Syndrome (TS).

Whoa, no; I don’t swear. No, um, I don’t think it’d be more fun if I ‘developed’ the swearing kind. No, actually, it is not the perfect excuse to swear.

Hang on; let me clear up some common misconceptions here. Let me tell you what TS is really.

First, imagine the biggest sneeze you can.

Now, hold it; don’t let it out. Even if the pressure builds.

That feeling. Right there. Imagine that feeling in your body constantly. That is the closest feeling I can relate to how Tourette Syndrome feels. That is the best way I know to explain to other people how I nearly always feel.

It’s a purposeless tension that is always building, that must be released somehow.

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15 Ways You Know You’re a Climber…

We are a special breed. Whether you’re a noob or a veteran, it’s quite clear when you’ve been bitten by the climbing bug. Here are 15 ways you know you’re a climber…IMG_0888

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Climbing in the Year 2030: Climbing Mentality

Photo credit: Royal Robbins

The mental fortitude that Lynn Hill demonstrates could be a focus in the future of climbing. Photo credit: Royal Robbins

Over the last two weeks, climber and author John Burgman, has looked into climbing’s crystal ball and predicted how the sport might change over the next 15 years. Today we go back to the future one last time and take a look at potential changes to climbing mentality. 

In a recent Ask Me Anything on Reddit, Lynn Hill was asked about the mental side of climbing, and she responded with her opinion that focus and mental fortitude don’t come so much from other people, rather they are strengthened within oneself. This was an appropriate answer because for a long time external resources—experts, websites, classes and books—that targeted the mental side of climbing did not exist. As a result, for many climbers, diving into psychological motivations and working on mental toughness for routes—or bouldering problems—long involved a sort of jury-rigged hodgepodge of non-climbing sources forcefully poured into one’s own climbing mold; take a meditation exercise that you learned in a yoga class, combine it with a visualization technique from a self-help podcast, use a little of that anti-anxiety breathing technique that a former roommate taught you, and apply it all to whatever crux is tripping you up at your crag.

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Climbing in the Year 2030: Gear


Oh, how the times have changed!

Today we’re sharing the third installation of John Burgman’s series “Climbing in the Year 2030″. Last week, we looked at how training may evolve and John predicted what could be in store for climbing gyms of the future. In today’s segment Burgman talks to the experts to speculate on how gear could evolve over the next 15 years. 

If there’s one common denominator in the predictions and speculation of the next 15 years of climbing, it’s specialization. The all-around climber, at least at the elite level, might soon be an extinct breed. In the year 2030, competitive boulderers will boulder and sport climbers will sport climb, with even more separation than there exists now. Gyms will offer isolated training related to specific disciplines, and indoor and outdoor climbing will set off down their divergent paths, heading towards considerably different destinies like teenagers in a breakup.

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