When my girl-beta works, the dudes are like…
For a boulderer a good crash pad is essential, and now, with more options than ever, choosing the right crash pad can be tricky. We’ve taken some of the work out for you and tested three pads from some of the top climbing companies in the world. Today we’ll run through the pros and cons, specs and features of the Organic Simple Pad, Metolius Session Pad, and Evolv Maverick. Before we get started let me give you a quick intro to each pad. The Organic Simple is exactly that, a simple design with high quality, stiff foam, tough, durable exterior, customizable features, and is made completely in the US of A. The Metolius Session is the most affordable of the pads, and features some extra bells and whistles like a flap closure system with a stash pocket and carpet for wiping off dirty shoes. The Evolv Maverick is a slightly larger pad, with a width of 40″, has a flap closure system, and is built to take a beating. Now, let’s get into the details.
Congratulations to Instagram followers Valsmissng and Bierson for having the gnarliest hands – oh, I mean, for having the best photos and winning the skin care prizes from last week’s post!! Thanks to all of our contestants for giving us lots of gore, and for overall just being rad. And of course a huge thanks to Giddy Organics and climbOn for supplying the amazing products that will get our winners healed up right quick!
And if you don’t follow us on Instagram, consider it! To give you a little sample of what you’d find, here’s one from a few weeks ago of me climbing at Joshua Tree (and rocking my fave new denim jacket ).
Don’t even get a climber started on hand care. We climbers are a pretty obsessive bunch when it comes to certain details – shoes, shoe sizing, skin care, humidity, rock types, ropes, gear, grades, beta, etc. We each have opinions on all of it, and some of us love to share these opinions, loudly. In the past we did a post on foot care, and skin care, but so far have managed to tip-toe around this particular topic because we were dreading the angry comments it might inspire. In the end we came up with this: If you ask 100 climbers what the best way to care for hands is, you’ll get 100 different responses. In essence, there is not one “right” way. Everyone’s skin is different and has to do what works for them. So today we’ll share with you some wisdom from skin care specialists and professional climbers alike, and then you can choose to obsess about it however you wish (because that’s just what we climbers do best). Here are some common questions climbers ask about skin care:
If you were obsessed with climbing in 1994, you wouldn’t have had at-the-crag access to DPM’s archive of beta videos on your smart phone. You’d have had to wait 3-4 months after the fact until Rock and Ice hit the shelves of the local gym to find out that Sasha sent a 5.14d on American soil. Climbing was forcibly more personal, local, and sub-cultural. Climbing in 2014 is an entirely different world. Not only can we find out within hours of clipping the chains that Sasha sent 5.14d, but thanks to Instagram we can see what she ate for breakfast before climbing. Whether you call it progress or commodification, it is quite clear that the reigning “King of Internet Climbing” is 30-year-old Wisconsin native, computer programmer turned blogger, Brian Runnells. Haven’t heard his name before? Try his internet persona: The Climbing Narc.
These days, almost all of us, myself included, learn to climb in a gym. Sure, there are those lucky few who have a quirky alpinist uncle or purist friend who insist they only climb outside, but let’s be real here, gyms are convenient, fun, and they’re popping up everywhere. Then, at some point we overhear our fellow gym rats talking about their weekend climbing plans or see a beautiful video of Sasha climbing in Spain, and our curiosity is peaked. Well, it turns out there are a lot of things to consider when making the transition from gym-only climber to outdoor adventurist, so today I’ll give you a few tips on making the shift to the great outdoors. Keep in mind this list doesn’t cover everything you need to know to transition outdoors, nor is it a substitute for hands-on experience, but I hope it gets you thinking about your first steps towards climbing outside.
Guest contributor Lily He has been hitting up the crags and gyms, scoping out the best stories behind the everyday climber. Today, we feature her interview with Linda Lee – the mother of a talented and dedicated climbing family whose story brings new meaning to the idea of “Rock Roots”.
First, you notice the kids. Andy Lamb is 19 and just podiumed at ABS Nationals (don’t worry, I heard from *someone* that he couldn’t get to the top of the walls at Boston Rock Gym when he started climbing). Katie Lamb is 16 and climbed her first 5.14a, Cold War, at Rumney this summer (perhaps the youngest female to climb 5.14 at Rumney. Don’t have any embarrassing stories about her). Then, you realize you see that guy in the glasses…everywhere. Charlie Lamb, their dad, expertly belays the best climbers in the country (read: doesn’t short rope) at every rope competition. Finally, you put it together. That lady at the climbing gym who is confidently giving sound advice to her friends before, during, and after they rope up is the matriarch of this amazing climbing family. As fascinating as it is to see how this family fits together, what’s even more interesting is discovering that Linda Lee has come a long way from being a passive observer to a dynamic climber who is taking charge of her own progress.
Just in case you missed Crux Crush’s first all-female bouldering comp at MetroRock last Saturday – or if you want to be inspired by some incredibly talented, strong women, or if you want to see if you made the video cut, check out Louder Than 11′s Iron Maiden highlight reel. Get psyched for spring sending!
Climb on! ~Cate
Today our friend and favorite physical therapist Kristen DeStefano is back! Last time she gave us a lesson on the A2 pulley strain and now she’s filling us with knowledge on shoulder injuries. The shoulder is a complicated place, so get comfy and prepare to be schooled.
The shoulder is a very tricky and complex joint. Injuries to this joint are not only extremely common, but can be disabling to climbers, even during their daily routine. Research shows that 20% to 30% of the general population is affected by rotator cuff pathologies, which only becomes more prevalent and disabling with age. So, when those nagging shoulders are slowing you down at the crag, or you’re just trying to stay healthy, here are some helpful tips.
I have a secret I need to admit. This weekend I was out to dinner with Delaney Miller, and when she left the table to go to the ladies room, I googled her. In my defense of this creepy act, I was CONVINCED that she was a least 21 years old, maybe 22-23. I wondered aloud if she might want a beer, and my friend said, “I think she’s only like 18.” And you know what? It’s true. She’s 18. So why did I think she was older? “A lot of people think I’m older,” Delaney said, when I confirmed her age with her, because I still kind of didn’t believe it. She has this relaxed and thoughtful energy that gives you the vibe of an older soul. Some might describe her as quiet, but she’s the first to tell you she’s not shy at all. While talking about the differences between this past weekends’ all-female bouldering comp, Iron Maiden at Metro Rock in Everett, MA and co-ed comps she’s been to she explained, “When the climbs I want to get on get crowded out, I like to use this move,” as she lifts up her arm, and does a sharp elbow-jab. No, this girl is not shy.