Girl Crush of the Month: Chelsea Rude

Check out that lock off! Photo: Francois Lebeau

You can never use your negative ape index as an excuse again. Why? Chelsea Rude. With a -3 ape index her nickname is T-Rex, but that hasn’t stopped her one bit. As Chelsea puts it, “Don’t make excuses. Get up and go make your dreams a reality.”

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The Climbing Doctor’s Warm-Up

Today on Crux Crush, Physical Therapist, Dr. Vagy, shares a video and description of his research based, climbing specific warm-up, that has pros like Jonathan Siegrist psyched. (His warm-up was previously described on DPM Climbing, with still photos of each of the stretches).

Let’s face it, nobody likes warming-up before they climb. It’s not sexy, not cool and takes a lot of time. Well, what if there was a solution where you could mirror the exact movements that you perform on the rock wall, but on the ground? Would you warm-up more often? Check out this new climbing specific warm-up that is supported by the latest research evidence and can be performed in less than 10 minutes. View the video above of professional climber Jonathan Siegrist performing the warm-up and learn to climb injury free.

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Climbing with Tourette Syndrome


Hi. My name is Cyane. I love being outdoors, I positively adore climbing and, oh, yeah… I have Tourette Syndrome (TS).

Whoa, no; I don’t swear. No, um, I don’t think it’d be more fun if I ‘developed’ the swearing kind. No, actually, it is not the perfect excuse to swear.

Hang on; let me clear up some common misconceptions here. Let me tell you what TS is really.

First, imagine the biggest sneeze you can.

Now, hold it; don’t let it out. Even if the pressure builds.

That feeling. Right there. Imagine that feeling in your body constantly. That is the closest feeling I can relate to how Tourette Syndrome feels. That is the best way I know to explain to other people how I nearly always feel.

It’s a purposeless tension that is always building, that must be released somehow.

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15 Ways You Know You’re a Climber…

We are a special breed. Whether you’re a noob or a veteran, it’s quite clear when you’ve been bitten by the climbing bug. Here are 15 ways you know you’re a climber…IMG_0888

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Climbing in the Year 2030: Climbing Mentality

Photo credit: Royal Robbins

The mental fortitude that Lynn Hill demonstrates could be a focus in the future of climbing. Photo credit: Royal Robbins

Over the last two weeks, climber and author John Burgman, has looked into climbing’s crystal ball and predicted how the sport might change over the next 15 years. Today we go back to the future one last time and take a look at potential changes to climbing mentality. 

In a recent Ask Me Anything on Reddit, Lynn Hill was asked about the mental side of climbing, and she responded with her opinion that focus and mental fortitude don’t come so much from other people, rather they are strengthened within oneself. This was an appropriate answer because for a long time external resources—experts, websites, classes and books—that targeted the mental side of climbing did not exist. As a result, for many climbers, diving into psychological motivations and working on mental toughness for routes—or bouldering problems—long involved a sort of jury-rigged hodgepodge of non-climbing sources forcefully poured into one’s own climbing mold; take a meditation exercise that you learned in a yoga class, combine it with a visualization technique from a self-help podcast, use a little of that anti-anxiety breathing technique that a former roommate taught you, and apply it all to whatever crux is tripping you up at your crag.

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Climbing in the Year 2030: Gear


Oh, how the times have changed!

Today we’re sharing the third installation of John Burgman’s series “Climbing in the Year 2030″. Last week, we looked at how training may evolve and John predicted what could be in store for climbing gyms of the future. In today’s segment Burgman talks to the experts to speculate on how gear could evolve over the next 15 years. 

If there’s one common denominator in the predictions and speculation of the next 15 years of climbing, it’s specialization. The all-around climber, at least at the elite level, might soon be an extinct breed. In the year 2030, competitive boulderers will boulder and sport climbers will sport climb, with even more separation than there exists now. Gyms will offer isolated training related to specific disciplines, and indoor and outdoor climbing will set off down their divergent paths, heading towards considerably different destinies like teenagers in a breakup.

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Climbing in the Year 2030: Gyms and Facilities

Are climbing gyms the new urban fitness craze? Photo of BKB Chicago by The Chicago Architecture Blog.

Are climbing gyms the new urban fitness craze?

Today we’ve got part 2 of 4 of John Burgman’s series “Climbing in the Year 2030″. In part 1 he took a look at how training may evolve over the next 15 years and in today’s segment he chats with gym owners and training experts to predict what the future holds for climbing gyms and training facilities. 

While there are still those die-hards who view indoor climbing as somehow inferior to the outdoor form of the sport, such opinions seem to be disappearing along with the indoor/outdoor debate itself. It was always ridiculous to try and put the two iterations on some mythical hierarchy because they can coexist just fine alongside each other. You never hear scuba divers chiding swimmers who enjoy doing laps in a pool, right?

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Climbing in the Year 2030: Training

None of these things existed 15 years ago. How will climbing change in the next 15 years?

None of these things existed 15 years ago. How will climbing change in the next 15 years?

Over the next two weeks, we will take a look into the future of climbing in a 4 part series. The sport has changed tremendously since 2000. Guest contributor John Burgman, author of Why We Climb, talked with experts in the climbing field to explore how the sport might progress in the next 15 years.

Take a moment and think back to your climbing life in the year 2000. Perhaps you weren’t climbing at all back then, but if you were, you didn’t post updates about your current project on Twitter or Instagram. If you frequented a gym, it was likely of the beige-walled, cavernous variety, quite a contrast from the complete-fitness optimization palaces of today. The climbing scene, as well, was different 15 years ago. Consider this: Daniel Woods and Alex Puccio were yet to dominate the ABS Nationals because the comp didn’t exist yet. Adam Ondra was only seven years old in 2000. Ashima Shiraishi was…well, she wasn’t; she wouldn’t be born for another year. Evolv shoes wouldn’t be on the market for another two years, and the same goes for the colorful Organic chalk bags and crash pads that are so prevalent at crags today. It’s a safe assumption that back in the year 2000, then-Illinois-Senator Barack Obama and most other non-climbers of the world had never heard of the Dawn Wall, let alone some cockamamie idea of “freeing” it…

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Summer Climbing Essentials

Summer is here! Time to soak up the sun, enjoy the longer days (more pitches!) and embrace all the gloriously sweaty moments. Here are our summer essentials to be enjoyed at your favorite crag.


1. 3rd Rock Luna Sports Bra – Sometimes less is more. Especially when temperatures rise and humidity is steep. No need to cover up this cute and functional sports bra. It’s eco-friendly, made of 95% organic cotton and is GMO free so you can look good and feel good about this purchase. Plus with the longer length for a bit more coverage…no free shows here!

2. Mammut Liquid Chalk – Sweaty hands, greasy holds…summer brings some not-so-welcomed added challenges, so help yourself out with liquid chalk. Stays on sweat, lasts longer and helps to dry out your hands.

3. Sun Bum Sunscreen – Let’s be smart when it comes to the sun. We are definitely not staying indoors, so we’ve got to apply the SPF. This stuff is great (and the bottle and name are adorable). Don’t want to lotion your oh-so-precious calluses? There’s an aerosol version and it’s free of CFCs so the ozone will still love you too.

4. Yogitoes Headband – Sweat dripping down your face? Keep your hair back and soak up some sweat with this lightweight, no-slip headband. I can’t stand the handbands that dig in to my larger-than-average dome, but this is so comfy you don’t even realize it’s there. And there are countless colors and designs.

5. Sublime Brushes – Summer leads to chalk overload. Use this next-level brush—with boar bristles and an easy grip. Why boar’s hair in particular? It doesn’t erode the rock like other synthetic materials, so you can remove excess chalk but leave the natural texture of the rock intact. Keep an eye open, Sublime Brushes are coming soon! In the meantime check out their Kickstarter campaign.

What would you add to our summer essentials list?

Climb on!

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Girl Crush of the Month: Alessia Refolo

outside alessia

Alessia enjoying some climbing outside. Photo by Franco Marino.

Inspired by yesterday’s Adaptive Climbing Competition, our girl crush this month is 2014 Paraclimbing World Champion in the B2 (blind) category, Alessia Refolo. As a baby Alessia survived a rare form of cancer, but the medication needed to cure her irreversibly damaged her retina and optic nerve. Although blind from the age of one and a half, Alessia considers herself lucky and blessed to even be alive. Now at the age of 24, she is taking the world by storm by earning paraclimbing championship titles, representing E9 clothing, and being featured in Vanity Fair Italia.

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