Tag Archives: Michaela Kiersch

Why Americans Don’t Care About the Climbing World Cup

world cup 2016

The 2016 Overall World Cup bouldering podium: Shauna Coxsey of Great Britain, Miho Nonaka of Japan, and Melissa Le Neve of France. Photo by Liam Lonsdale via Shauna’s IG.

Every year the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) hosts a series competitions in each discipline of climbing: bouldering, sport, and speed. This year the bouldering World Cup series has come and gone, and now the sport climbing World Cup series is underway. Did you even notice? Okay, maybe you noticed, but how many comps did you watch? How many did you care about? For most of us, at least Americans, the answer sounds something like “Not many”, “Zero”, or “Huh? You mean that Euro comp?” Having covered each Bouldering World Cup competition this season on Crux Crush, we also noticed that very few of you read, commented on, or shared these posts. I’m not calling you out here, I’m just saying that we, as Americans, don’t seem to care.

There are really two sides of the not-caring-equation: the competitors and the spectators. Each side isn’t getting into it for different, but related reasons. To dig into the issues surrounding the World Cup we caught up with a bunch of American climbers who have competed in the series, including Megan Mascarenas, Margo Hayes, Ben Hanna, Sierra Blair-Coyle, Michaela Kiersch, and Josh Larson. Here’s what we found out.

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Teenagers Margo Hayes and Michaela Kiersch Send God’s Own Stone, 8b+/5.14a

Michaela cruising up God's Own Stone

Michaela cruising up God’s Own Stone

Over the weekend 15-year-old Margo Hayes and 18-year-old Michaela Kiersch both sent God’s Own Stone (8b+/5.14a) at Red River Gorge. As a member of Team ABC in Boulder, Margo won SCS Youth Nationals in 2011 and with this send ticked off her first 5.14. For Michaela, GOS comes in as her second 5.14 and on her blog she reflects, “This climb meant a lot to me because it is not my style at all. For those of you who don’t know me, I like looooong endurance climbs (like Omaha Beach). This one is very short in comparison and so it is really bouldery. It was a personal accomplishment to be able to climb something very challenging for myself.” GOS has seen its share of sends, especially by young ladies; back in 2010 Paige Claassen earned the route’s FFA and in 2012 Brooke Raboutou, at age 10, became the youngest female to ever send the grade. Congrats to Margo and Michaela for joining the ranks of some seriously strong ladies!

Climb on!

Photo and Info Credit: Michaela’s Blog and 8a.nu.

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Recent Sends and Upcoming World Cup

_540452-243852499056506-100002952748845-434420-1701908343-n-1338515206Michaela Kiersch on Swingline (5.13d) in Red River Gorge in 2012

We don’t have any epically groundbreaking sends to report on this week, but several ladies are still getting out there and pushing it. Here are a few notable sends from the week:

  • Austrian climber Martina Harnisch sends Babylon, 8a+ (5.13c), in her home country.
  • American Michaela Kiersch takes down Pushin’ Up Daisies, 8a+ (5.13c), at Red River Gorge, KY.
  • Hannah Midtbø of Norway sends Akkurat der, 7C+ (V10) and describes it as, “Really cool! Funky start, difficult to hit the last hold before the topout.”
  • 12-year-old Giorgia Tesio, who we featured in our Young Guns post, sends Cinq et demie, 7B (V8), in Fontainebleau, France.

If you’re rained in this weekend, like us in New England, you can catch the fourth round of the 2013 Bouldering World Cup streaming from Log-Dragomer, Slovenia.  Finals air on Sunday, May 12th at 7pm (you’ll have to convert that from Log-Dragomer local time) and you can watch the whole comp steaming live on the IFSC site.

(Info and photo credits: 8a.nu, fiveten.com)

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