Rock Climbing Bed

Rock climbing bed bouldering wall was built to fit inside my college dorm room, so it had to be compact and portable for the three-hour commute. The primary structure is made up of three components in the overall design. Each frame is 4×8 in size, which is the standard size of the bed of most pickup trucks and (for me!) minivans. Two eight-foot 2x10s and an eight-foot 2×4″ that also supports the bed hold the three parts together.

You might be glad to know the steps of making a rock climbing wall in your garden, check this out!

The climbing components are then fastened to the frame and are all tiny enough to fit into the designated vehicle. The bed is positioned behind the top element in the design, and storage may be added below the angled climbing section. It was a lot of fun (albeit a little annoying at times) to build, and the climb is surprisingly tough and durable given the structure’s 8x4x8 footprint.

Step 1: Collecting Materials

This job was not as affordable as I had hoped, but I believe the ultimate product was well worth it. Because I despise wasting materials as scraps, I attempted to use stock sizes as much as possible. But, keep in mind, bring a tape measurer when you go to buy the wood since a few of our boards were a couple of inches short or long, and nothing is more aggravating than discovering that after you’ve finished shopping. This doesn’t include everything; we had to make many more trips to the local hardware store.


To reduce trimming, I prefer buying in 8-foot lengths, and you’ll need 19 boards if you do.)

* 16′ of 2×10′ boards (For 8-foot lengths, you’ll need two boards).

* 96 square feet of 3/4″ thick cabinet-grade plywood (available in 8×4 sheets, you’ll need three).

I know, I know, this is a lot of plywood. But I guarantee you, it makes for a really sturdy wall! I strongly advise against skimping on the plywood! The cabinet grade is substantially stronger and is essential for the stability of this design. It also looks good and will prevent splinters from your hands and feet when climbing.


  •  a huge package of 150 2 “wood screws
  •  50 medium boxes of 1.25″ wood screws
  •  a little package of 20 3 “wood screws
  •  right angle 2×4 brackets
  • carriage bolts 3/8″-16 x 5-1/2″ (3/8″ thick, 5.5″ long)
  • 3/8″ x 3″ carriage bolts
  • 3/8″ washers
  • hex nuts 3/8 “

Check out the image of the right-angle bracket. I hope I counted everything correctly. Just a bit more and don’t be furious at me if I didn’t!


  • bolted and T-nut climbing holds

These holds are also highly recommended by me. The shipment came quickly, the holds were excellent, and the pricing was the best I could find. If you have the courage, check out some additional Instructables on how to create your own. If you have any that are better/cheaper/magical, please leave a link in the comments!

In the end, the holds I started with proved to be rather challenging for some of my less experienced friends (and myself! ), so I went ahead and purchased one of Metolius’ megapacks. I ordered the 50-hold pack, which has a terrific number of holds for this wall and is by far the greatest value of the mega pack sizes (most jugs/macros and fewest footholds for your money). These grips made it enjoyable for everyone to jump on the wall and climb, making it well worth the extra money. Moreover, the colors served to liven up my space!

While looking around, I discovered some additional fantastic firms, including a personal favorite, The Detroit Rock Climbing Company. I have yet to get my hands on their grips, but it appears that they offer some extremely high-quality items as well as a variety pack similar to the one seen above. I’ll update this instruction after I receive some for my wall.


The instruments are quite generic. A good drill with plenty of spare batteries is required. You’d burn your arms if you tried to see all this stuff by hand. A decent t-square and a straight edge are essential, and you’ll be using them a lot! socket wrench with a 3/8″ tall socket. 3/8″ drill bits plus anything else required to pilot them When you have some bolts jammed, a crowbar and hammer will be your best friends.

Step 2: Connect The 2x4s

If you can get untreated 4x4s, get the necessary amount and skip this step! My hunch is that you’ll have a difficult time because this isn’t a typical piece of lumber. The idea is to build thicker, more sturdy legs at each corner than a 2×4. So, place one 2×4 on top of the other, drill some holes at either end and screw it in once everything is matched up.

After that, insert around 8 screws into one side of the board, adjusting the edge to place them closest to as you proceed down the board. Flip it over, insert your screws at the ends, then insert eight more along the opposite sides so your screw points don’t collide.

If you wish to apply a coat of liquid nail polish, go ahead! Just make sure these 2x4s are straight and robust. You’ll need 5 of these modified “4×4″s; bear in mind that the measurement is NOT precisely 4×4, so keep that in mind as we proceed.

In this phase, we’ll also attach our right-angle brackets to our five “4×4″s. The bottom corner of your top right angle bracket should be 24” from the top of the plank, and the bottom corner of your bottom right angle bracket should be a half-inch or so from the bottom of your plank to avoid the metal bottom scratching any flooring. Using 2-inch wood screws, secure them to the flat face of your plank.

Step 3: Build The Side Frames

If you want the frames to sit absolutely flat in the bed of your car, use 3.5-foot crossing boards. To maximize your climbing area while conserving wood, cut two of your 8-foot 2x4s in half and utilize the 4-foot lengths. After you’ve cut them, insert the crossing boards into the right angle bracket, pilot some holes, and secure them with 1.25″ screws. When you’re finished, you should have two nice-looking rectangles (NOT three!). The middle frame will come next.

To insert the diagonal bar 1.5″ from the bottom of the rear board The bottom of the diagonal should be touching here. The diagonal’s top should be flush with the corner of the crossing bar. You’ll want to use some of your longer bolts to secure the bars.

Countersink certain holes in the boards to provide a flush fit with the washers and against the wall. Drilling at an angle through 2x4s is difficult; simply note where you want the bolt to go in. Then come out on the other side, line the two up as near as you can with your first pilot hole, and push them closer to ideal with each subsequent pilot hole.

At all times, maintain clean, flat edges. If you make a mistake someplace, go back and redo it; don’t let it slip!

Step 4: Constructing The Middle Frame

You’ll need your final “4×4″ and a few extra 2×4 planks for this phase. Attach two 2.5″ lengths of 2×4 in the same way you did the 8-foot pieces. Install your right angle bracket two feet down on that 2.5” length and connect it to the last “4×4” with a four-foot cross beam.

Attach another diagonal in the same manner as you did in the previous step. Except for the bottom left corner component, this center section should be identical to your end pieces. This stage requires that all of your edges be flat and accurate!

Step 5: Assembling The Frame

Place your two end frames on the ground and run your 8-foot 2×6 planks over the top. Screw them into the frame at the rear and front edges. Screw a 2×4 down the center of the board. Measure EXACTLY halfway down each of the planks you just laid over the top (4 ft).

Place the central frame part at the EXACT 4ft mark. This edifice will seem shaky, and you’ll begin to doubt the entire endeavor… but as long as you’ve been accurate in your measurements and construction, this thing will be bombproof. Maintain your confidence!

Step 6: Cut The Plywood

Now that you’ve seen how shaky the frame can be, let me reiterate one more time: you NEED cabinet-quality plywood! If you tried to save money there, I strongly advise you to return your items and obtain the nice goods. My plywood pieces were 4×8 in size, which was ideal.

All of the pieces will be 4 feet long. The top sections must be two feet tall, the center six feet tall, and the bottom one and a half feet tall. You should be able to cut the top and center parts from two plywood sections with one cut, which is fantastic! The last one will require you to cut two 1.5-foot lengths of plywood, plus a little plywood left over, which you should save for something unique later.

Step 7: Plywood Top Section

This is when the project becomes difficult. Draw a line through the center of the top area of your middle frame. You want the plywood to form an absolutely flush seam along this line. I achieved it by screwing a screw into the front of the frame where I wanted my plywood to hang.

 After getting the seam flat, I guided everything and installed the bolts. It’s not that simple, and you’ll have to tinker with it for a while to get it exactly perfect. Another challenging aspect is getting four bolts into the middle 2×4; ensure you measure carefully! Allow your buddies to assist you in holding the items in place; you’ll need them for the rest of the job. Use longer bolts and washers to secure your items. Best wishes!

Step 8: Bottom Section of Plywood

Do the bottom area first; the middle section will require practice. To get over the bracket, these parts require a little notch in the bottom corner, so measure and cut it. Again, you’ll want a tight seam, so measure and line up your line on the center frame.

Use your large bolts again, and be sure to counter sink the rear so the structure will sit flat against a wall. If your seams were tight in the last section and this one, you should see the project gaining some real stability. If not, tighten those seams up!

Step 9: Middle Section Of Plywood

The middle portion is difficult, but completing it is really satisfying. More notches will be required in each of the upper corners, so measure and cut what you require. Draw another straight center line because you’ll need it.

The trick to keeping things upright is to rest them on the bottom board’s lip; this also makes a great seam, so take advantage of that. Hold them up one at a time, aligning them with your center line. While it’s being held up, pilot and drill a hole in two corners, then feed a bolt through to keep it in place.

You may now pilot the rest of the part and insert some bolts; you may use your shorter bolts for this portion. Rep on the opposite side. As long as you stayed loyal to that central line, you should have a really sturdy structure at this point. Take a moment to admire its beauty!

Step 10: Install The Handholds

This stage will demand a lot of drilling, so prepare your batteries! Make a grid the size you want on your wall. In the top area, I did ten across and four tall, ten across and six tall in the center, and ten across and three tall on the bottom.

Drill as far away from any edge of your plywood as possible, and pilot as much as possible to avoid splitting. If any splinters appear near the holes, sand your boards well. Hammer your T-nuts into the rear of the board (one for each hole so you can simply interchange handholds) and bolt your handholds to the front.

Step 11: Customize

Your wall is nearly finished from here! Have fun climbing! You should have some scrap wood left over, and there are some neat things you can do with it. A tiny step ladder leading up to the bed is a great touch, as is installing shelves behind the angled area.

It would be amazing if you could utilize the leftover plywood to add extra grips to the corner! The bolts on either end can also be used to hang a hammock. I had some extra hooks at home, so I inserted them into the frame to hold gear and other items. Make some grips out of scrap wood or other materials and screw them on. The wall is essentially your oyster!


Both climbing and building are inherently dangerous activities. Use your common sense; if your seams aren’t tight or you believe you need extra stability, add it! Check and double-check all of your bolts and screws. Have fun, but be cautious!

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