When Fear Raises Its Ugly Head…Again: We all have struggles in life. Whether it be with family, relationships, injury, or something else – we all have our own battles. What separates us from where we want to be is how we choose to deal with our struggles. Do we accept it as just the way it is or do we fight for what we want?
November of 2014 I was the most confident climber I had ever been. I was leading climbs that would have previously seemed too scary to consider but I was able to push forward without a second thought. I was feeling safe, secure and strong. Maybe I was too confident, maybe I was bordering hubris. In an instant everything changed.
The author, Hilary, in the background working Predator, 5.13b.
When Fear Raises Its Ugly Head: Surprisingly Slipped
I slipped on a wet hold on my warm-up prior to clipping the first bolt. A climb I had done hundreds of times before with ease now spit me off and sent me tumbling backwards off a ledge. The climbing accident left me with two broken heels, a fractured vertebrae and a shattered ankle.
Leaving the hospital with husband, Jed, post accident.
Training On My Bed Everyday
During my recovery, I tried to do whatever I could to maintain some strength. This included leg lifts from my bed, 5 pound bicep curls, and a freestanding hang board that my husband built for me to wheel my wheelchair under. Unfortunately, there was nothing that I could to address the fear I felt about climbing again. Mentally, it was like starting from square one. Actually, if it’s possible to start from negatives, that’s probably where I was.
I found myself not only scared on top rope but I was struggling going down stairs. I would find myself death gripping the stair rail, envisioning myself going head over heels hitting every step on the way down. It seemed so real I could almost feel the impact. I would hesitate, hiking across narrow trails that I would have never even noticed before. I expected that it would be hard to start climbing and leading again but I never envisioned the panic I would feel simply standing on top of a 3 foot tall boulder to belay. I didn’t know how long the road ahead of me was, but I really wanted it.
Maintaining strength during recovery with the help of a wheel-chair accessible hangboard.
Battle Again With The Fear Of Falling
Unlike the first time I had battled fear years ago, I had the advantage this time of knowing that it was possible to work past my fear. I had done it before. I also had an intense desire to get back to where I was, pushing my limits physically as well as mentally. I heard a podcast interviewing pro climber Hazel Findlay where she described working on one’s fear like stretching a muscle, the more you push through it the easier it is to stretch the next time. I completely agree.
After 2 months in a wheelchair and another month with crutches, I was finally able to start climbing again. The first few top ropes were a combination of excitement to be finally doing what I loved and had been missing but also so much anxiety and fear. I found it helped to be choosy about who I had belay me. I only let those I truly trusted and could feel confident that I would have their full attention belay me. After a month or so of top roping I was starting to feel more confident and safe.
So, I started leading in the gym, steep stuff at first and only climbs that I was confident I would not fall on. Soon, spring arrived and it was time to start facing my fear outside, back at Rumney.
Past Training Helped Me To Get Back At Work Again
From dealing with my fear in years past I knew the only way to start feeling comfortable falling again was to take falls. For me, avoiding falling only makes the fear stronger. I need to be reminded that falling under the right conditions is safe. I picked a climb that I knew well and was steep and safe. With a well-trusted belayer and friend I was able to take a bunch of lead falls. It was hard but I knew it was what I needed to do. The more falls I took, the safer and less scared I felt.
The next step for me was getting back on the climb I fell from. I knew putting this climb behind me was necessary for rebuilding my confidence and that the longer I waited the harder it would become. I fought off the tears as I tied into my harness, looking at the rocks that I hit as I tumbled to the spot where I had finally landed. I asked my husband not to speak to anyone else at the crag so that I would know I had his full attention. It took everything I had to remain calm and continue moving up the climb.
The relief I felt when I landed safely back on the ground was overwhelming. I knew I had taken a huge step towards my recovery. Afterwards, each day got a bit easier and with the support from my husband and friends I was able to keep pushing.
Hilary climbing on Predator (5.13b) this September, less than a year after her climbing accident.
Final Words…
Fast forward to now, I’m getting better. I’m regaining my confidence and I am feeling less scared. I still have days that are harder than others, where the fear creeps in more. On these days I feel like my hands are opening and my feet are slipping. Nothing feels secure and I find myself checking my knot multiple times while climbing even though I know I checked it before I left the ground. On these days I try to be patient with myself and not get frustrated, it’s hard.
When I feel panic while climbing or even going downstairs I try to breathe and ask myself if my fear is real or irrational. I do the same thing when I am scared climbing. Most of the time it’s irrational but that doesn’t make it feel any less real. Sometimes acknowledging that the fear is not real and reminding myself that I am safe helps. I know it will get better. I just have to keep pushing ahead. To those of you struggling with climbing or otherwise, keep fighting. Be patient with yourself but don’t give up.
