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Training tips, advice, and programs

5 Ways To Enhance Your Climbing

5 Ways To Enhance Your Climbing: Performance-enhancing drugs in climbing? Never! The idea seems somehow opposed to the core of climbing, doesn’t it? Yet we’ve all seen climbers go to great lengths to “enhance” their performance. Today we discuss five (totally legal) ways to step up your climbing game. Because let’s be real, if there’s something that will help me crush my project after a season of feeling oh-so-close to the send, I’m all ears. …

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No Excuses: Training From Home

No Excuses: Training From Home: It’s the middle of winter and while you might be dreaming about sending your proj this summer, you’re full of excuses when it comes down to training for your summer of sending. “It’s so hard to get to the gym after work.” No excuses! Grab that pan and get started training (forearm hypertrophy) now! “There’s a driving ban because of the snow.” “If only I had a home wall…” Ya, …

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The Truth About Rest Days

Let’s talk about the truth of rest days. Today’s post comes from Galina Parfenov, who recently launched her own training site, Parfenov training. Her site focuses on online training programs, private coaching, and training posts. If you’ve ever watched any of Galina’s Training for Climbing Youtube videos, you know she takes climbing and training seriously. Keeping that in mind, when Galina tells you that rest days are important, you should listen. In the time I have been …

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How To Go From “Sport Weenie” To Ice Climbing Diva

How To Go From “Sport Weenie” To Ice Climbing Diva: Today we are lucky enough to have guest contributor Alexa Siegel share her best tips for how to go from being an obsessive sport climber to an all-out ice climbing machine.  She shares her story of how she fell in love with the sport, and why she thinks you can too! I grew up in the suburbs of Boston and started my climbing career in …

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A Step-By-Step Approach To Conquering Lead Climbing Fear

Approach To Conquering Lead Climbing Fear: A step-by-step approach to conquering lead climbing fear: When today’s guest contributor, Josh Thompson, approached us with this piece about dealing with fear, I (Missy here today, hey guys!) was on board right away.  As a person who a) has a terrible fear of lead climbing, b) is even more afraid of belaying than climbing, and c) has had a lot of negative experiences with climbing in a short …

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Climber Problems: Ankle Injury

Climber Problems: Ankle Injury. It’s that time of year again when the air gets crisp and the friction is perfect. It’s time to hang up those ropes and cram your bouldering pads in the trunk! With the seasonal transition, many of you will be heading out to boulder. While bouldering is fun, it has different elements that can lead to injuries— gravity and the ground! These annoying forces make ankle sprains one of the most …

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Tips For Setting Up A Rad Home Wall: Taking Your Woody To The Next Level

In today’s post, we share a few tips we’ve learned along the way in designing a rad home wall, specialized to fit your own personal training needs while also providing an atmosphere that supports your climbing community. Several of our readers have requested a post on home walls. The fact is, that as far as the construction goes, Metolius has done a fabulous job of detailing out the process. Rather than reinvent the wall, we’ll just refer …

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How To Train On The Campus Board

When it comes to training one of the most intimidating tools we can think of is the campus board. We know that this big, imposing board covered in vexing little rungs is an effective training tool, but it can be hard to even know how to begin to use it. So to help us get past our fears, we turn to none other than the fiercely dedicated training machine, Galina Parfenov (and if you haven’t …

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Climber Problems: Elbow Injury

Got aches and pains? We’ve got Kristen DeStefano, our physical therapist, to the rescue!  Today she talks about one of the climber problems: elbow Injury, and how to deal with ’em. The outdoor climbing season is in full swing now, and you’ve been getting after it every week with gym sessions, hang board routines, and campus boarding in between. What you might not realize is these repetitive and high-stress movements are a killer on your …

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Climber Problems: Shoulder Injury & Recovery

Climber problems shoulder injury: Today our friend and favorite physical therapist Kristen DeStefano is back! Last time she gave us a lesson on the A2 pulley strain and now she’s filling us with knowledge on shoulder injuries. The shoulder is a complicated place, so get comfy and prepare to be schooled. We ask a lot of our shoulders while climbing, so don’t forget to give a little back to them’. Climber Problems Shoulder Injury The …

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